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Routes in Main Crag

"Exercize Buttress" T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
"Steeple" Face TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
A Mind is a Terrible Thing to Waste TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Almost Cut My Hair TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Changing Majors Senior Year T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
College Rock Chimney Buttress TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
College Rock Traverse V3 6A
Don't Know Much About Biology TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don't Stop Till You See the Whites of My Eyes TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Exersize Left to the Reader TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Extra Points TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flunked Again TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's Late September TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mantel V3 6A
Militant Right TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
More Money TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Mind Is A Blank T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nerds TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Not on My Face You Don't TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Send Money TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Vacation (College Rock Chimney) TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 28 ft
FA: who knows? who cares?
Page Views: 123 total, 1/month
Shared By: Robbovius on Jul 23, 2007
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

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Description

This is the very first climb I ever did at College Rock, in March of 2003, in my sneakers, so keep your sneakers (or hikers) on, and just do it, you know you want to. I routinely do this as my very last climb of the day for top access to retrieve my anchors. Free-up-and-downclimbing the chimney for top access is so much more "core" than simply scrambling up either end of the crag, don't you think?

In the corner formed by the buttress and "Send Money" face, climb up to an obvious ledge on easy holds, go over the "nutcracker" flake into the offwidth, and continue up the chimney to the top, using holds inside the chimney and just outside on the butress. Did you find the knee-bar? Downclimbing is more challenging, so of course you haven't really "finished" the route unless you do that too.

Location

A little less than halfway down the crag southward (just after the 5.11 roof face), is the first prominent right-facing buttress. behind this buttress is the College Rock Chimney, a sorta-fun highball in an offwidth, with a couple awkward moves adding a bit of low-grade spice.

Protection

Are you kidding? This is 5.0! What protection? DON'T JUMP OFF. Oh alright, set your anchor using features in the rock above the chimney. Some longish slings might be required.

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