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Routes in Dinosaur Rock

Big Bob Cranks S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dinosaur Jr. TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dinosaur Tracks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
East Bone T
East Face Right/Dinosaur Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Face/Dinosaur Rock T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jurassic Park S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Milk Bone S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Patience Face S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pink Man's Burden S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pretty in Pinkler S,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Rug Munchers T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Shaft, The S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
South Ramps T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tracks are for Kids S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Triceratops Tracks S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ultrasaurus (aka Uber-Pwnage) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
West Bone T
West Face [Dinosaur Rock] T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR, 90 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Chris Weidner, Cameron Cross, Andy Mann, Paul Glover
Page Views: 13,990 total, 123/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jul 17, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the leftmost tufa feature on the north face of Dinosaur Rock. It shares its first 45 feet with Patience Face, but where Patience Face moves right, head straight up onto "The Shaft." Love it up... continuous and physical.

Location

This is on the left side of the north face of Dinosaur Rock.

Please access this climb and Pretty in Pinkler only from the switchback along the Mallory Cave Trail. That is, don't approach up from the toe of Dinosaur Rock or walk down that way when done climbing. It's very steep there and will only contribute to erosion.

Protection

10 bolts to a double-bolt anchor.
ebethreegs
  5.12b/c
ebethreegs  
  5.12b/c
Nice work, Matt and team! Another killer line by the broheim. Definitely did not feel like .12b until my redpoint burn. Mega classic.

Beta alert: for me, the keys to unlocking the beta were in a tricky pinch below the jug "rest" and super high feet at the crux. Try to get up there on a weekday, it's a busy one on weekends. Oct 14, 2017
Nolan Robertson
  5.12b
Nolan Robertson  
  5.12b
Really fun thought provoking intro climbing leads to a sustained battle to the anchors, a really great route! Mar 23, 2017
Josh Janes    
 
A four-star route despite the anchors being 3 or 4 moves too high.

I left the Boulder area shortly after Milk Bone was bolted but before this was. It's fun to come back and see this great little crag become a bit more well-rounded. Oct 1, 2016
trevor stuart
Aurora, Colorado
trevor stuart   Aurora, Colorado
If anyone took off draws recently, I'm looking for them. I had to leave them up cuz of rain and came back 3 days later, and they are gone. Aug 28, 2016
Pinklebear  
 
Found: 11.20.12: One pretty big, needing-a-resole Miura, below The Shaft and Patience Face, Dinosaur Rock, Flatirons, Boulder, CO. PM me through the site if it's yours. Nov 21, 2012
Pinklebear  
 
We yarded off the loose block with the X between the first and second bolts today. What's remaining might (**might**) creak a little when pulled out on, especially the left side of the complex, but it is avoidable. Use caution, and if it still seems iffy then feel free to send the thing. Apr 10, 2012
Amir erez
Boulder, CO
 
Amir erez   Boulder, CO
 
The undercling starting the climbing after the rest was pulled off the route over the weekend, but it should not affect the climb too much or change the grade. Almost hit a little girl at the base...careful out there. Sep 20, 2011
Pinklebear  
 
Glad you like the route, Chris! Patience Face passed at the last FHRC meeting, so we plan to put it in once it warms up (spring 2012). Sep 2, 2011
Chris Archer
  5.12b
Chris Archer  
  5.12b
Well done, Matt! Outstanding route! When is the Patience Face going in? Many thanks for all your hard work establishing quality climbs for the community. Sep 2, 2011
Spencer Anderson
Fort Collins, CO
 
Spencer Anderson   Fort Collins, CO
 
Wow! Best 12b sport route in the Front Range? Probably! Aug 18, 2011
Steve Annecone
boulder
 
Steve Annecone   boulder
 
Outstanding route with lots of interesting and varied moves, and a huge pump factor at the end! I can't think of a better sport route in Boulder. Thanks to Matt et al, and OSMP for making this route happen! Jul 23, 2011
Pinklebear  
 
APPROACH NOTE: Please access this climb and Pretty in Pinkler only from the switchback along the Mallory Cave Trail. That is, don't approach up from the toe of Dinosaur Rock or walk down that way when done climbing. It's very steep there and will only contribute to erosion. Jul 8, 2011
Excellent route! Thanks for putting it up! Nov 8, 2010
Superb route. Thanks to Paul and Matt. One or two of the hangars are loose. I'd suggest bringing a wrench to tighten them up if you plan on getting on The Shaft. Oct 26, 2010
Pinklebear  
 
Thanks for the comments, Ian.

We had debated where the anchors should be, but put them high — top of the wall — to be consistent with our FHRC application and with the other Dino Rock climbs, which also go to the lip of the north face. If you get over your foot and reach left around the arete, there are some good sidepull crimps that making clipping the anchors a snap.

I think this adds one more 5.10/5.11 crux, too, which is nice. Oct 12, 2010
Aeon Aki    
 
Good climbing but the consistency is broken by a huge no hands rest before the crux. I would have called it quits at the last bolt placement as the additional moves to the chains add no difficulty except for an awkward clip to claim the send. Still, a nice pitch with plenty of tricky moves. Oct 12, 2010
Another great line at Dino Rock - fun and bolted perfectly. Climbing turns exceptional at the upper arete/bulge/tufa section, and it's
nice having a line a little easier on this face. Thanks, guys, for putting it up. Oct 11, 2010
Area Dan
Oakland, CA
 
Area Dan   Oakland, CA
 
The Shaft is awesome and quite clean considering how recently it was bolted - no reason to wait on more traffic.

Thanks for putting this up. Oct 2, 2010
Pinklebear  
 
This is now (9/24/10) a lead climb, with 10 bolts to double-bolt anchors at the lip. You need a 60-meter rope. Bolted and climbed by Paul G and Matt S.

A million thanks to OSMP and Rick Hatfield, the Flatirons Climbing Council, and the Access Fund for making it possible to install new routes in the Flatirons.

Enjoy the climb! Sep 24, 2010
Ryan F.
Tucson, Arizona
Ryan F.   Tucson, Arizona
I'll bet people would enjoy this climb more if it was bolted. Sounds like you guys got some strict rules out there. Ouch. Aug 18, 2010