Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown, pre 7/93
Page Views: 2,999 total · 15/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 16, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a fun, short, slightly-overhanging sport route with huecos on a WSW buttress near to Dinosaur Rock. The rock is still a bit friable at the start partly due to lack of traffic and partly due to its overhanging nature. It is the rightmost of 3 bolted lines on the buttress.

Find this route by on a small, steep buttress next to Dinosaur Rock access via NCAR to the Mesa Trail then either hiking up the Mallory Cave Trail until above the top of Dinosaur Rock and hiking briefly down the second gully between it & Der Freischutz (between 1st & 2nd strata) or hiking South on the Mesa Trail to the Bear Canyon Trail, crossing Bear Creek, and up the gully between the 1st & 2nd strata. You can see this buttress well from the top of Rehatch or Cloudwalker on Northern Dinosaur Egg. You can scramble/climb around the back of the formation or climb the route to its left to set up a TR. You may be able to clip the first bolt without engaging the route. From there, it quickly requires crux moves to cross through traversing right with scaly rock for the feet. The second bolt is a bit hidden in a hueco. Blowing this clip may result in leg injuries, but the holds are quite good here. This bolt also may leave your biner partially hanging over a ledge. It is probably best to back it up with a spectra or Kevlar sling threaded through the bolt. Power up on huecos and scoops past the 3rd bolt and move right to pull onto the ledge with the 2 bolt anchor. The chains here are also quite rusty. Longer slings may be useful to reduce rope wear for toproping. A finish more left made add to the difficulty. Perhaps it is 35 feet in all.

Rap the route.

Protection

3 QDs, 48" slings for the anchor.

Photos