Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown, pre 7/93
Page Views: 2,668 total · 15/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 16, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

26 Opinions

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


This is a fun, short, slightly-overhanging sport route with huecos on a WSW buttress near to Dinosaur Rock. The rock is still a bit friable at the start partly due to lack of traffic and partly due to its overhanging nature. It is the rightmost of 3 bolted lines on the buttress.

Find this route by on a small, steep buttress next to Dinosaur Rock access via NCAR to the Mesa Trail then either hiking up the Mallory Cave Trail until above the top of Dinosaur Rock and hiking briefly down the second gully between it & Der Freischutz (between 1st & 2nd strata) or hiking South on the Mesa Trail to the Bear Canyon Trail, crossing Bear Creek, and up the gully between the 1st & 2nd strata. You can see this buttress well from the top of Rehatch or Cloudwalker on Northern Dinosaur Egg. You can scramble/climb around the back of the formation or climb the route to its left to set up a TR. You may be able to clip the first bolt without engaging the route. From there, it quickly requires crux moves to cross through traversing right with scaly rock for the feet. The second bolt is a bit hidden in a hueco. Blowing this clip may result in leg injuries, but the holds are quite good here. This bolt also may leave your biner partially hanging over a ledge. It is probably best to back it up with a spectra or Kevlar sling threaded through the bolt. Power up on huecos and scoops past the 3rd bolt and move right to pull onto the ledge with the 2 bolt anchor. The chains here are also quite rusty. Longer slings may be useful to reduce rope wear for toproping. A finish more left made add to the difficulty. Perhaps it is 35 feet in all.

Rap the route.


3 QDs, 48" slings for the anchor.


All three protection bolts have been replaced on this climb, as well as the anchor (now one Fixe Ring Anchor and one Fixe hanger with chain and links) thanks to work done by the Flatirons Climbing Council. Many thanks to the ASCA for providing the hardware, and to OSMP, the Access Fund, and the Flatirons Climbing Council for making new routing and ongoing route maintenance possible in the Flatirons. Mar 23, 2012
Good climbing but would be more enjoyable with a bolt between 1 and 2. As it is, the crux is dangerous. Apr 6, 2012
Chris Archer
  5.10c R
Chris Archer  
  5.10c R
Crux climbing between the first and second bolts on friable rock. If anything breaks or you fall climbing the last 6 to 8 feet getting to the second bolt, you will hit the ramp. Oct 6, 2012
  5.10a/b PG13
  5.10a/b PG13
Really doesn't need an R grade in my opinion. The only couple footholds that are used on the traverse are solid, and you stay pretty much horizontal with the bolt, not much fall potential. After the two crux moves that feel .10a, you have a couple moves of 5.6 before you can clip the next bolt. You would deck if you fell at the second bolt, but the climbing is way easier than the crux. Upper section is really fun too, and instead of exiting straight right of the third bolt, making a big move straight up to the massively juggy rail is really fun. Jun 22, 2016