Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,455 total · 7/month
Shared By: George Bell on Apr 22, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a fun scrambling diversion that is just off the Mallory Cave Trail. This trail heads up just north of Dinosaur Rock, and after you pass it, head south a hundred feet or so to some large boulders in the saddle west of Dinosaur Rock.

Working your way east up the ridge to Dinosaur Rock, you will immediately run into a problematic vertical wall. It is not easy to figure out how to get past this wall at 5.0, and it presents even more of a puzzle if you are descending another route and have not climbed up this ridge before. The trick is to traverse south under the steep section, into a dihedral. Do not continue up the dihedral (probably 5.6), but keep traversing south and up on huge holds as the exposure increases below you. You will soon top out on a small ridge, the traverse below you looks quite improbable from here when you are descending.

Now head back to the west ridge, and continue easily to the summit area. To get to the very top, you must climb a slab which is also somewhat exciting to free solo. Look around carefully for the easiest spot. Enjoy the view on top and then descend the same way.

Protection

Light Rack (if any). There is no anchor on top so you will have to downclimb the final pitch in any case.

Photos

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