Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: TR: Chris Weidner, Matt Samet | Lead: vice versa
Page Views: 16,844 total · 133/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jul 17, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


79 Opinions

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This climbs the pronounced, limestone-like tufa (the "Bone") in the middle of the north face of Dinosaur Rock. It's 30 meters long, and sustained as all hell once you step off the ledge below the Bone. The water action down the wall sculpted all the best holds right on the Bone itself - the scoops out left and right are blank, forcing Euro-style movement on this extruded feature.

The climb follows 11 half-inch bolts to a double-bolt anchor at the lip of the wall, out of the way of the East Face slab routes. We unclipped the first bolt after clipping the second, for rope drag, and used a long sling or two in places higher on the route, though they aren't totally mandatory. There is a sort of wedged block near the second bolt that we didn't use on the traverse - heads up with it. There's also a hollow toaster-sized flake near the jugs down and right of the last bolt - don't use that either (X on it). You don't need to use either of these holds.

To begin, scramble up the ramps, and then move right to left across the lower ledges. Once below the roof, start tugging and don't let go till the chains. For what it's worth, I think this is one of the best pitches in the Flatirons.

Many thanks to the Flatirons Climbing Council, Boulder OSMP, and the Access Fund for making it possible to establish new routes in the Flatirons.

Location

This is in the center of the north face of Dinosaur Rock.

Protection

11 bolts to a double-bolt anchor. The first bolt is about 40 feet up but is reached via easy fifth class. If you get gripped on the dirty ramp, there's probably a little gear.

60-meter rope - and tie a knot in the end.
Ben Scott
Fort Collins, CO
Ben Scott   Fort Collins, CO
This route is awesome.
Killer sustained climbing out a long proud wall.
Unusual movement, good rock, nice approach.
If you like 13a climbing, don't miss this one.

Thanks, Matt! Jul 7, 2009
Madaleine Sorkin
Boulder, Colorado
Madaleine Sorkin   Boulder, Colorado
Yes, thank you for this route!

So a week after Glover's post on Sept. 7th, I pulled the fixed draws off Milk Bone. Please contact me so I can get the draws back to you.

Historically speaking, it was public annoyance over the route--Superfresh-- on a major hiking trail, with its tick marks and fixed draws, that was the final straw to close the Flatirons to route development 13 yrs ago. I really want to be able to continue climbing the Flatirons and see new good lines developed. This is happening through pilot areas and trail work and a working relationship with OSMP, etc....

Excuse me for pulling the draws and please don't fix on this major trail in the future.

Sept. 7th Post:
Someone recently ticked the hell out of Milk Bone. Giant, foot long ticks clearly visible from the trail. Overticking is super lame to begin with and draws attention to the crag and our scene which we need to keep super low key so we can keep this new-routing thing going. Someone has had their draws on this route for over a month now. Whoever it is please remove your draws so we don't attract negative flack from hikers or rangers. If you need to hang the draws, it is easy to 4th class to the summit of Dino from the west and do a short rap off a giant flake to the anchors. And be cool to hikers no matter what retarded yum-yums they are. Sep 17, 2009
Joe Collins
  5.13a
Joe Collins  
  5.13a
Thanks for taking those draws down. This is an extrememly popular area for hikers and Milk Bone is clearly visible right above the trail.

I'm really thankful for all the new routes that Matt, Chris, and Ted have had a hand in up there. Leaving draws hanging in a location as public as this could get the crag closed and possibly threaten the future opening of more coveted crags in the Flatirons. Sep 18, 2009
Tank Evans
  5.13a
Tank Evans  
  5.13a
I pulled the fixed draws off Milkbone today. I am really sorry if you hiked all the way up there and were not able to climb. However, please see previous posts for this route and Ultrasaurus and do not leave draws on these routes.

Please contact me, so that I can get them back to you. Again I apologize if this hoses a day of climbing for you, but we really need to tread lightly so that more awesome routes like these can be put up.

Thanks Jul 11, 2010
reboot
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reboot   .
 
Awesome route with a cool crux and very intricate body movement/positioning above. Yes, the business is only about 3-4 bolts long, but it really packs a punch. I thought it's slightly harder and better than the neighboring Ultrasaurus (thought the 2 have very different style). Jun 5, 2011
Dan Yager
Fort Collins
  5.13a
Dan Yager   Fort Collins
  5.13a
Fantastic route! and my first .13!! Thanks, Matt, for this gem! Happy send-tember, all. Sep 13, 2011
Nolan Robertson
  5.13a
Nolan Robertson  
  5.13a
The moment you get out from under that roof and start slapping up the GIANT sandstone rib feels amazing, then holding on through the relentless crimps is an amazing battle! Mar 23, 2017