Avg: 3.9 from 111 votes
|Type:||Sport, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||TR: Chris Weidner, Matt Samet | Lead: vice versa|
|Page Views:||21,402 total · 133/month|
|Shared By:||Pinklebear on Jul 17, 2008|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The climb follows 11 half-inch bolts to a double-bolt anchor at the lip of the wall, out of the way of the East Face slab routes. We unclipped the first bolt after clipping the second, for rope drag, and used a long sling or two in places higher on the route, though they aren't totally mandatory. There is a sort of wedged block near the second bolt that we didn't use on the traverse - heads up with it. There's also a hollow toaster-sized flake near the jugs down and right of the last bolt - don't use that either (X on it). You don't need to use either of these holds.
To begin, scramble up the ramps, and then move right to left across the lower ledges. Once below the roof, start tugging and don't let go till the chains. For what it's worth, I think this is one of the best pitches in the Flatirons.
Many thanks to the Flatirons Climbing Council, Boulder OSMP, and the Access Fund for making it possible to establish new routes in the Flatirons.