Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown, pre 7/93
Page Views: 5,000 total · 26/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 14, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


This is a fun, slightly-overhanging sport route with huecos on a WSW buttress next to Dinosaur Rock. The rock is still a bit friable partly due to lack of traffic and partly due to its overhanging nature. It is the left of the 2 bolted lines. It is not listed in either of R. Rossiter's Boulder Climbs North nor Flatirons guidebooks. It was shown to me by Scott Resnick. He informed me it was 5.9; however, it feels a bit stiffer. Some may find it harder than my rating for an on-sight.

Find this route by on a small steep buttress next to Dinosaur Rock access via NCAR to the Mesa Trail then either hiking up the Mallory Cave Trail until above the top of Dinosaur Rock and hiking briefly down the second gully between it & Der Freischutz (between 1st & 2nd strata) or hiking South on the Mesa Trail to the Bear Canyon Trail, crossing Bear Creek, and up the gully between the 1st & 2nd strata. You can see this buttress well from the top of Rehatch or Cloudwalker on Northern Dinosaur Egg. You can scramble/climb around the back of the formation and set up a TR with a directional off the 5th and/or 4th bolts (the anchors lie left of the line).

Fire up huecos which must be carefully used to keep the rating as above. Apparently, this route was originally led with cams, no bolts. Apparently, it has been retrobolted, oh well. It is continuously overhanging, but it has plenty of jugs. The 2nd bolt is on a small shelf that leaves any clipped biner partially hanging over a ledge (don't fall). It is probably best to back it up with a spectra or Kevlar sling threaded through the bolt. You can plug in a #3 Camalot in a hueco maybe 5 feet higher. The crux is just above the 4th bolt utilizing a key hueco sidepull. You hop right onto the South face and find the 5th bolt along the West most edge of the South face. The anchor bolts are okay, but currently the chains are very rusty. They are set back from the edge, so that 48 inch slings are required to reduce rope wear for belaying from below. This is a fun route. It is a reality check if it is consensus 5.9. It is approximately 60 feet.

Rap the route.

Apparently, it was referenced in an old Rock & Ice article. Which issue? Page?

Finally, the hangers are all old style SMC hangers. Maybe they could be updated?


5 QDs, a #3 Camalot, 48" slings for the anchor. Originally climbed with Friends and then retrobolted.


You could (in the old days) approach this via Bear Canyon; however, now you can approach this via Dinosaur Mt & the Mallory Cave trail.


Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
I stumbled upon this crag yesterday while trying to find the Bubble. Rossiter's Flatiron book is out of date as far as access in Bear Canyon, the climber's trail along the creek is now closed by Open Space. I don't know the best way to access this area, but I'm going to try the Mallory Cave trail next time. The routes on this wall are a lot of fun. Sep 6, 2006
Boulder, CO
dseltzer   Boulder, CO
An OK crag, to access we hiked Mallory Cave then cut left above Dinosaur Rock. A bit of a scramble down the gully, but manageable. We climbed this to set up a top rope for Tracks are for Kids. Oct 24, 2011
Liz Donley
Boulder, CO
Liz Donley   Boulder, CO
Pretty steep route for the grade. The 2nd bolt placement is not optimal, since any 'biner that you clip to it will point out horizontally over an edge.... The hanger can be slung instead, but by the time I fixed it, I was mega-pumped! Our party of 3 all agreed that the route was 5.10, and I'm relieved to see that others are in agreement! Oct 24, 2011
All four protection bolts have been replaced on this climb, with two new anchor bolts installed at the lip (anchor bolts: one Fixe Ring Anchor and one Fixe hanger with chain and links) thanks to work done by the Flatirons Climbing Council. Many thanks to the ASCA for providing the hardware, and to OSMP, the Access Fund, and the Flatirons Climbing Council for making new routing and ongoing route maintenance possible in the Flatirons. Mar 23, 2012
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
Fun little route. Seemed harder than the "5.10" to the left. Definitely not as straightforward, took some figuring out. On another note, great wall for when it has recently rained/snowed. 6-8" of snow on the ground during the approach, but the base and wall were perfectly clean! May 3, 2013
A. Bandos
Broomfield, CO
A. Bandos   Broomfield, CO
Only four bolts. The moves going up being bolt 2-3 are fairly committing if you don't have a large cam to shove in the huecos. It thought this was just as difficult as the climb to the left, just not as pumpy or good. Sep 19, 2015
Fun route, has a cool balance move at the start and a big pull at the last bolt that definitely feels .10- or so. Tall folks can make a big reach, and short folks have a good high left foot, cool how it works out. All bolts seemed safe and placed well to me. Jun 22, 2016