Type: TR, 45 ft (14 m)
FA: Mark Roth and Glen Charnoski, maybe?
Page Views: 1,975 total · 17/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Oct 3, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a really fun route in a beautiful spot. A few bolts would make it a fun lead, but as it is you might want to toprope. The climb starts in the cave on the South face. Exiting the cave is easy if you chimney (5.7), but it is also possible to boulder out the overhang without using the big ledge on the left (11a?). Once above the cave, you are rewarded with some really clean and fun face climbing.

If you fix your rope to a tree on the North side of the boulder and scramble up the back (5.4), you can step around the west side onto a sloping ledge on the South face. Work your way down the sloping ledge for about 15 feet. There is a nice crack to build a gear anchor near the lip (#2 or #3s are ideal). The rock is short enough you can use your rope from the tree to back up the anchor and still have enough slack to set up a toprope with the rest.

Location Suggest change

This route is on the South face of the giant boulder in the saddle on the west side of Dinosaur Rock.

Approach via the Mallory Cave Trail, and hang a left after you pass The Shaft and the other NW face routes.

Protection Suggest change

There is some protection but nothing that would keep you off the ground. It's a little too high to boulder. Some of the moves are insecure, and the landing is terrible.

Some #2 or #3 Camalots will make a nice top rope anchor.