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Routes in Dinosaur Rock

Big Bob Cranks S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dinosaur Jr. TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dinosaur Tracks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
East Bone T
East Face Right/Dinosaur Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Face/Dinosaur Rock T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jurassic Park S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Milk Bone S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Patience Face S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pink Man's Burden S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pretty in Pinkler S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rug Munchers T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Shaft, The S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
South Ramps T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tracks are for Kids S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Triceratops Tracks S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ultrasaurus (aka Uber-Pwnage) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
West Bone T
West Face [Dinosaur Rock] T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
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Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: Mark Roth and Glen Charnoski, maybe?
Page Views: 900 total · 19/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Oct 3, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a really fun route in a beautiful spot. A few bolts would make it a fun lead, but as it is you might want to toprope. The climb starts in the cave on the South face. Exiting the cave is easy if you chimney (5.7), but it is also possible to boulder out the overhang without using the big ledge on the left (11a?). Once above the cave, you are rewarded with some really clean and fun face climbing.

If you fix your rope to a tree on the North side of the boulder and scramble up the back (5.4), you can step around the west side onto a sloping ledge on the South face. Work your way down the sloping ledge for about 15 feet. There is a nice crack to build a gear anchor near the lip (#2 or #3s are ideal). The rock is short enough you can use your rope from the tree to back up the anchor and still have enough slack to set up a toprope with the rest.

Location

This route is on the South face of the giant boulder in the saddle on the west side of Dinosaur Rock.

Approach via the Mallory Cave Trail, and hang a left after you pass The Shaft and the other NW face routes.

Protection

There is some protection but nothing that would keep you off the ground. It's a little too high to boulder. Some of the moves are insecure, and the landing is terrible.

Some #2 or #3 Camalots will make a nice top rope anchor.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10- R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10- R
Nice find. Pro to pull lip to horizontal would be thin and in poor rock. Pro in horizontal might be OK. Nothing to speak of after that. 10- seemed about right for the grade but without 2 climbing shoes, I was hard pressed to guess as to how hard it would have been if I'd had them... so I'm not sure how much 'correction factor' I should have been adding.

Anchor was bomber with Camalots *0.5- #3. All grade A, and a cordalette. Jul 12, 2017

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