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Routes in Dinosaur Rock

Big Bob Cranks S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dinosaur Jr. TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dinosaur Tracks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
East Bone T
East Face Right/Dinosaur Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Face/Dinosaur Rock T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Jurassic Park S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Milk Bone S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Patience Face S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pink Man's Burden S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pretty in Pinkler S,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Rug Munchers T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Shaft, The S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
South Ramps T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tracks are for Kids S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Triceratops Tracks S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ultrasaurus (aka Uber-Pwnage) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
West Bone T
West Face [Dinosaur Rock] T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR, 115 ft
FA: First lead: Derek Peavey, Matt Samet, Paul Glover. First TR: Samet, Glover. Variation in the groove TR'ed earlier by Rui Ferreira, et al.
Page Views: 8,709 total, 76/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jul 17, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a 35-meter lead on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, right off the Mallory Cave trail. It climbs nice tan and maroon stone down low to a long black streak/rib that goes to the top of the wall. You must ABSOLUTELY USE A 70-METER ROPE FOR THIS CLIMB!!!

Originally done as a toprope, this is now a 14-bolt lead. Climb the first five bolts of The Shaft to a resting pod, then step right to the other, wider black streak/tufa thing. Follow this past nine more bolts all the way to the top of the wall on nice dark rock, with a handful of intricate cruxes separated by 5.10/5.11 climbing and some other rests. Definitely a voyage...Double-bolt anchors are a bit left at the lip so the rope will run better; unclip the last draw while lowering to reduce wear on your cord.

There are a few no-hands rests ("pods") here and there, but plenty of cruxes in between, including one at the top. We named all the pods, too -- seemed funny at the time.

Pre Pod, Pinkler Pod, Love Pod, Post Pod....

Many thanks to the Flatirons Climbing Council, OSMP, and the Access Fund for making it possible to install new climbs and update old ones in the Flatirons.

Location

This is slightly east (left) of center on the north face of Dinosaur Rock.

Protection

14 bolt to double-bolt anchors.
Nolan Robertson
  5.12a
Nolan Robertson  
  5.12a
Tricky, confusing, and definitely a great name to represent the style of climbing on this. Mar 23, 2017
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
  5.12a
Bruno Hache   Longmont, CO
  5.12a
Excellent warm-up for Milk Bone.
Many rests allows for an Onsight.
At the top, I would traverse right to the top anchor of Milk Bone and clip the draws down.
It helped a lot. Oct 12, 2014
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
There's a no-hands rest for almost every bolt on this climb. Not complaining though, I love rests. This thing also makes for a great rope swing! Sep 21, 2014
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Somebody left a draw on the last bolt. If it is yours and you can identify it, I will return it to you. Jul 7, 2014
A voyage indeed! IMO, this is the best 12a sport climb in the Flatirons. Climbing above the bolt at the first and hardest crux is exciting. Thanks to Matt for another great route. May 27, 2014
Rob Bailey
  5.12a
Rob Bailey  
  5.12a
Honestly, I think this one is better than The Shaft. Super fun!! Thank you, Matt. Apr 7, 2014
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Really fun route and a great warmup for the 13s in the area. Feb 9, 2014
Rui Ferreira
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Rui Ferreira   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Glad to finally see this bolted! It has been a long time coming since I first threw a top rope on this back in November of 2007. Patience pays off at the end. Sep 1, 2012
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
Patience Face is an accurate name. Be patient when resting and deciphering beta and success will be yours.

I hate to say it, but we did it with a 60m. We got down to the top of the large rock to the right of the start with about 1 foot to spare.... Be careful out there and use a 70m. Jun 22, 2012
Pinklebear  
 
This route is now a lead climb: 14 bolts (first five shared with The Shaft, before heading right to the wide black streak) to a double-bolt anchor at the lip.

MANDATORY 70-METER ROPE. And did I mention that a 70-METER ROPE IS MANDATORY? Also, it's helpful to put a long sling on the fifth bolt for rope drag. Longer-longish draws might help here and there in other places too. Also helpful to unclip the last bolt when lowering, as it's a few feet right of the anchor and can cause your rope to rub.

Many thanks to the Flatirons Climbing Council, OSMP, and the Access Fund for making it possible to install new climbs and update old ones in the Flatirons.

Enjoy! Mar 27, 2012
Pinklebear  
 
The Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council will hold its public meeting Wednesday, July 6, at 7 p.m. at The Spot gym, Boulder, Colorado, to discuss and vote on applications for the June 2011 cycle. Anyone interested is invited to come participate and cast votes for the only proposal submitted so far (for this climb, Patience Face), which can be found here: flatironsclimbingcouncil.wo….
You can also leave comments on the proposed climb at the above link. Jun 10, 2011
Pinklebear  
 
An application to bolt Patience Face on the North Face of Dinosaur Rock as a lead climb can be found here:

flatironsclimbingcouncil.wo…

It has been submitted for the Flatirons Climbing Council FHRC cycle ending June 15. Any other new-route applications must be in by that date to be considered for this cycle. More info here: flatironsclimbingcouncil.wo…

Time and date of the FHRC vote and public meeting to be announced. May 28, 2011
Are you guys going to apply to bolt this? I was looking at it today and it looks fantastic! I'd be happy to help, if that would make the difference. Jul 6, 2009
Nice work, Matt. I always looked at this thing and knew it should get done but was always scared off by the lack of gear. Glad to see it's a quality line, even on TR. Jul 18, 2008