Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown, pre 7/93
Page Views: 5,802 total · 29/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 14, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


63 Opinions

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a fun, slightly-overhanging route with huecos on a WSW buttress of Dinosaur Rock. The rock is still a bit friable partly due to lack of traffic and partly due to its overhanging nature. It is now the leftmost of the 3 bolted lines.

Find this route by on a small steep buttress of Dinosaur Rock access via NCAR to the Mesa Trail then either hiking up the Mallory Cave Trail until above the top of Dinosaur Rock and hiking briefly down the gully between it & Der Freischutz (between 1st & 2nd strata) or hiking South on the Mesa Trail to the Bear Canyon Trail, crossing Bear Creek, and up the gully between the 1st & 2nd strata. You can see this buttress well from the top of Rehatch or Cloud Walker on Northern Dinosaur Egg. You can climb one of the sport climbs to the right of this plumb line below the anchors and set up a TR off of a 2 bolt anchor above the line or scramble/climb around the back of the formation.

The path of least resistance on this line starts as for the bolted climb to the right, then traverse left after the first bolt to the plumb line. It wanders a bit left in the upper half and then, near the top, exits off right just before the anchor. It feels 5.10b or so and is continuously overhanging. Strong climbers may find this too soft. There are some longer reaches for the height-challenged. The chains at the top are very rusty (now updated), but the bolts look ok. It is 55 feet in all. Long slings for the anchor help reduce rope wear.

Rap the route.

Addendum: in the days prior to the retrobolting, it was probably easiest to TR this if you lead Big Bob Cranks first.

Protection

TR 48" slings for the anchor.

As of 2012, this is now retrobolted with 5 bolts.

Photos

Evan S
Erie, CO
Evan S   Erie, CO
A slight bit of a bitch to set up a TR, the rock in back is covered with lichen and a little slippery, be careful. Nov 7, 2009
The rusty top anchor on this climb has been replaced and is now one Fixe Ring Anchor and one Fixe hanger with chain and links, thanks to work done by the Flatirons Climbing Council. After today (3/23/12), Tracks Are for Kids will also be a five-bolt lead climb. Many thanks to the ASCA for providing the anchor hardware, and to OSMP, the Access Fund, and the Flatirons Climbing Council for making new routing and ongoing route maintenance possible in the Flatirons. Mar 23, 2012
Super fun sport climb...definitely the best, and maybe the easiest, on this wall. A bit spicy at the top, but at least any fall would be clean! Many thanks to Terry Murphy, Steve Annecone, Matt Samet, and all the others whose support helped upgrade this hidden gem of a wall. Apr 6, 2012
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Ah, what a route! Many thanks to those who worked to get this up. Super fun climbing on sightly overhanging jugs. Pumpy, but very straightforward, maybe 5.9, 9+. May 3, 2013
a Ball
Denver, CO
 
a Ball   Denver, CO
 
Awesome route! Well worth doing for those of us looking for sport around Dinosaur that doesn't require .13a skills. No single move felt all that difficult, but it felt pumpy, although I have no endurance. My taller partner had an easier time with a few moves for sure. I will be back for the RP! Apr 12, 2014
Chris Beh  
 
One of the best 5.10 sport climbs in the Flatirons? Probably, but then, there really aren't all that many. Apr 23, 2014
John RB
Superior, CO
  5.10c
John RB   Superior, CO
  5.10c
Overhanging enough that it's a bit challenging to clean if your partner doesn't do it! The runout to the chains is a little spicy but the rest of the route is well-protected. Three distinct cruxes, I'd say, but they're only 5.9 or 10a-ish, but the climb never truly lets up, so the pump factor gives it the higher grade.

If this thing were next to the trail, it'd be busy all day. Mar 17, 2018
Marc Daubert
  5.10b
Marc Daubert  
  5.10b
Jug hauling at its finest. No real crux, but the consistent slightly overhung nature of the climb makes for a fun outing. One of the best moderates in the area for sure. Sep 2, 2018