Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown, pre 7/93
Page Views: 6,889 total · 32/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 14, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a fun, slightly-overhanging route with huecos on a WSW buttress of Dinosaur Rock. The rock is still a bit friable partly due to lack of traffic and partly due to its overhanging nature. It is now the leftmost of the 3 bolted lines.

Find this route by on a small steep buttress of Dinosaur Rock access via NCAR to the Mesa Trail then either hiking up the Mallory Cave Trail until above the top of Dinosaur Rock and hiking briefly down the gully between it & Der Freischutz (between 1st & 2nd strata) or hiking South on the Mesa Trail to the Bear Canyon Trail, crossing Bear Creek, and up the gully between the 1st & 2nd strata. You can see this buttress well from the top of Rehatch or Cloud Walker on Northern Dinosaur Egg. You can climb one of the sport climbs to the right of this plumb line below the anchors and set up a TR off of a 2 bolt anchor above the line or scramble/climb around the back of the formation.

The path of least resistance on this line starts as for the bolted climb to the right, then traverse left after the first bolt to the plumb line. It wanders a bit left in the upper half and then, near the top, exits off right just before the anchor. It feels 5.10b or so and is continuously overhanging. Strong climbers may find this too soft. There are some longer reaches for the height-challenged. The chains at the top are very rusty (now updated), but the bolts look ok. It is 55 feet in all. Long slings for the anchor help reduce rope wear.

Rap the route.

Addendum: in the days prior to the retrobolting, it was probably easiest to TR this if you lead Big Bob Cranks first.

Protection

TR 48" slings for the anchor.

As of 2012, this is now retrobolted with 5 bolts.

Photos