Pretty in Pinkler
Avg: 2.4 from 74 votes
Routes in Dinosaur Rock
|Big Bob Cranks S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Dinosaur Jr. TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Dinosaur Tracks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|East Bone T|
|East Face Right/Dinosaur Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|East Face/Dinosaur Rock T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Jurassic Park S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c|
|Milk Bone S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Patience Face S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Pink Man's Burden S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Pretty in Pinkler S,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Rug Munchers T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R|
|Shaft, The S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|South Ramps T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Tracks are for Kids S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Triceratops Tracks S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Ultrasaurus (aka Uber-Pwnage) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|West Bone T|
|West Face [Dinosaur Rock] T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c|
|Type:||Sport, TR, 70 ft|
|FA:||Matt Samet, Paul Glover|
|Page Views:||4,208 total, 37/month|
|Shared By:||Pinklebear on Jul 17, 2008|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is the leftmost bolted line on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, up pretty, grey-green fluted rock ending at the "pinnacle" of a little spire/ledge on the wall's left side. The climbing is crimpy but positive.
LocationThis is on the far left side of the north face of Dinosaur Rock.
Please access this climb and Pretty in Pinkler only from the switchback along the Mallory Cave Trail. That is, don't approach up from the toe of Dinosaur Rock or walk down that way when done climbing. It's very steep there and will only contribute to erosion.
Protection1. Ascend the west face of Dinosaur Rock (4th class/5.0). Drop over the summit to a small ledge on the east face, eight feet down.
2. On this ledge, tie a rigging rope (static line) through a hole/thread in a big flake. You could back this up with cams or other flakes/horns there. Rap down this 120 feet along the east, slabby face, looking for the ledge where this climb ends. (I got over here by traversing while belayed by a toprope on The Shaft, but you might be better off coming straight to it; the intrepid/sketchy could solo up the east slabs from the ground.)
3. Build an anchor by slinging the top of the pinnacle with a cordelette and backing it up with a #2 Camalot, a green C3, and a Metolius 4 or 5.
4. You shouldn't need any directionals on the way down.
This is now an eight-bolt lead climb to double-bolt anchors at the top face of the little spire.