Pretty in Pinkler
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.5 from 111 votes
|Type:||Sport, TR, 70 ft (21 m)|
|FA:||Matt Samet, Paul Glover|
|Page Views:||6,635 total · 37/month|
|Shared By:||Pinklebear on Jul 17, 2008|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
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This is the leftmost bolted line on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, up pretty, grey-green fluted rock ending at the "pinnacle" of a little spire/ledge on the wall's left side. The climbing is crimpy but positive. It started out at 5.11c or 5.11d, then a key jug flake fell off, so really it should probably just be 5.12a. Sorry for the sandbag....!
Please access this climb and Pretty in Pinkler only from the switchback along the Mallory Cave Trail. That is, don't approach up from the toe of Dinosaur Rock or walk down that way when done climbing. It's very steep there and will only contribute to erosion.
Original description (when the climb was a toprope; this is still useful beta if you want to Mini-Trax any of the routes on this wall):
1. Ascend the west face of Dinosaur Rock (4th class/5.0). Drop over the summit to a small ledge on the east face, eight feet down. 2. On this ledge, tie a rigging rope (static line) through a hole/thread in a big flake. You could back this up with cams or other flakes/horns there. Rap down this 120 feet along the east, slabby face, looking for the ledge where this climb ends. (I got over here by traversing while belayed by a toprope on The Shaft, but you might be better off coming straight to it; the intrepid/sketchy could solo up the east slabs from the ground.) 3. Build an anchor by slinging the top of the pinnacle with a cordelette and backing it up with a #2 Camalot, a green C3, and a Metolius 4 or 5. 4. You shouldn't need any directionals on the way down.
Modern description: Eight bolts to double-bolt anchors at the top face of the little spire.