Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Dave Barlow
Page Views: 63 total · 0/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jun 30, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Barlow's Buttress is the center crack approaching the high roofs near the right side of the Playground. The cruxes are at the beginning and end of the climb.

A tricky boulder problem just off the ground lets you get a hand-size cam in a slot. Pull on a chockstone through the first crux. Climb easy cracks up to the big roof (this is the next crack system to the right of Upper Left Roof, at this point). The second crux turns the highest roof to the righthand side. A harder variation at the top would be to exit by the center roof crack up high. Or, avoid the upper crux entirely by traversing right a little lower- escaping to the upper section of Battle of the Bulge.

Other than the tricky start (which isn't too high off the deck), good pro the whole way.

Jemez Rock calls this 5.11a. RC:NM says 5.9. If you want to keep it near 5.9, avoid the upper roof crux finish by moving to the right.

Location

This climb is the center line below the high roofs near the right side of the Playground, on the face to the right of Beginner's Hand Jam and Upper Left Roof.

Protection

1 set cams to 3", and nuts.
Save some gear to build an anchor. Like most at the Playground, the climb ends on the big ledge 20' below the clifftop, so anchoring off trees is not the best option.

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