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Routes in The Playground

Advanced Start T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Barlow's Buttress T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Battle of the Bulge T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beginner's Hand Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Wall T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blow Hole T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Burnt Crack T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cactus Climb T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheeks, The T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Code Brown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Face Variation TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fingertip Layback T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Strike T,S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Flakey Face TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flakey Nine T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flying A T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying A Buttress T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Luke and Carlo's route TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Moment of Inertia T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mononucleosis T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Moon Dog T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Foster's Lead T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Open Project TR 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Original Horak Route T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Playground Traverse V6-7 7A+
Playgrounder, The T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Repo Man T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route 1 T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 16 T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 17 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 18 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 20 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Route 25 T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Route 37 T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 6 T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route 6 (var.) T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
T2 Flake T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Texas T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tree Climb T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unrelenting Nines T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Upper Left Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vulture Roof TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Zander Zigzag T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Dave Barlow
Page Views: 46 total · 0/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jun 30, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Barlow's Buttress is the center crack approaching the high roofs near the right side of the Playground. The cruxes are at the beginning and end of the climb.

A tricky boulder problem just off the ground lets you get a hand-size cam in a slot. Pull on a chockstone through the first crux. Climb easy cracks up to the big roof (this is the next crack system to the right of Upper Left Roof, at this point). The second crux turns the highest roof to the righthand side. A harder variation at the top would be to exit by the center roof crack up high. Or, avoid the upper crux entirely by traversing right a little lower- escaping to the upper section of Battle of the Bulge.

Other than the tricky start (which isn't too high off the deck), good pro the whole way.

Jemez Rock calls this 5.11a. RC:NM says 5.9. If you want to keep it near 5.9, avoid the upper roof crux finish by moving to the right.

Location

This climb is the center line below the high roofs near the right side of the Playground, on the face to the right of Beginner's Hand Jam and Upper Left Roof.

Protection

1 set cams to 3", and nuts.
Save some gear to build an anchor. Like most at the Playground, the climb ends on the big ledge 20' below the clifftop, so anchoring off trees is not the best option.

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