Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 858 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jason Hundhausen on Jan 19, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

The initial part of this climb ascends a thin flake for the first 15 feet (crux). Gain the ledge and go left up a finger crack to a small roof. Turn the roof to the left or the right. This route is easily rigged for TR from the top.

[If you know the "real name" for this climb, post up. -Admin]

Location

Approximately 15 feet to the left of Blow Hole.

Protection

1 set wired stoppers, 1 set cams up to a #1 Camalot.
A bolted anchor for Flakey Nine is down on the big ledge.

Photos

Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Another worthy 5.9 at the Playground. Fun moves on the flakes lead to cool stemming in the upper dihedral up..

Gear through the crux opening twenty feet is a bit tricky. TCUs, link cams, or big stuff (#4/#5) protect this reasonably well. I've heard small nuts get the job done as well. Anyways, it's there, you just need to be creative.

Maybe a little easier than Upper Left Roof, but more fun IMO. Apr 12, 2009