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Routes in The Playground

Advanced Start T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Barlow's Buttress T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Battle of the Bulge T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beginner's Hand Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Wall T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blow Hole T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Burnt Crack T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cactus Climb T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheeks, The T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Code Brown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Face Variation TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fingertip Layback T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Strike T,S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Flakey Face TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flakey Nine T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flying A T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying A Buttress T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Luke and Carlo's route TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Moment of Inertia T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mononucleosis T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Moon Dog T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Foster's Lead T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Open Project TR 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Original Horak Route T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Playground Traverse V6-7 7A+
Playgrounder, The T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Repo Man T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route 1 T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 16 T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 17 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 18 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 20 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Route 25 T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Route 37 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Route 6 T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route 6 (var.) T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
T2 Flake T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Texas T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tree Climb T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unrelenting Nines T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Upper Left Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vulture Roof TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Zander Zigzag T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Carl Horak & Lou Horak, 1971
Page Views: 3,490 total, 28/month
Shared By: Mark Mathis on Jul 18, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

The best route here at this grade. Perfect hands for ~20ft to a ledge, then small hands to fingers on increasingly thinner ground to the belay ledge.

Location

Find the perfect hand crack towards the right hand side of the cliff. Belay from the top and walk off (to the right).

Protection

Standard light trad rack (set of nuts, set of cams).
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.9
It's very reasonable to go left to the anchor for Cactus Climb once you get on the big ledge near the top of this route. A .4 and/or .5 camalot serves well as a directional between the two routes. Aug 26, 2010
Logan Eckhardt
Albuquerque
Logan Eckhardt   Albuquerque
Call the local Radio Shack and ask for Mr. Horak. I'm sure he could tell you who did the FA on many of these you have questions about. Jan 31, 2008
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.9
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.9
I agree that it's unfortunate that the bolted anchors at the top got chopped, but the pro at the top (after you top out) is very good and very solid--stoppers and #2-#3 Camalots go well. Sep 13, 2007
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Too bad the anchor bolts got chopped. The climbing and the gear at the top stinks. Aug 15, 2007