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Routes in The Playground

Advanced Start T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Barlow's Buttress T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Battle of the Bulge T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Beginner's Hand Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Wall T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blow Hole T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Burnt Crack T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cactus Climb T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheeks, The T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Code Brown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Face Variation TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fingertip Layback T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Strike T,S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Flakey Face TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flakey Nine T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flying A T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying A Buttress T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Luke and Carlo's route TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Moment of Inertia T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mononucleosis T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Moon Dog T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Foster's Lead T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Open Project TR 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Original Horak Route T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Playground Traverse V6-7 7A+
Playgrounder, The T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Repo Man T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route 1 T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 16 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 17 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 18 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 20 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Route 25 T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Route 37 T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 6 T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route 6 (var.) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
T2 Flake T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Texas T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tree Climb T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unrelenting Nines T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Upper Left Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vulture Roof TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Zander Zigzag T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Description

The Playground is a 60 foot south-facing basalt cliff. Numerous moderate to difficult crack and face climbs ascend the cliff. Routes at this area are not bolted (by agreement), so be sure to bring your gear to lead. While route bolts are strictly verboten, anchor bolts are allowed. However, the last anchor bolts to be installed (over Beginner's Hand Jam) were chopped and few currently exist, so many climbs require trad gear to establish anchors.

Climbs are numbered from left to right with numbers as in 'Jemez Rock' and as shown in the beta photos.

Getting There

To get to the Playground from NM state road 4, turn south on Rover blvd. After about 100 yards, take a left on Meadow lane. Follow this street (it will slowly curve south) passing the turnoff for the Overlook, and continue to 719 Meadow Lane. Park near by, being careful not to block mailboxes or driveways (several residents have complained in the past). Take the public access trail between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. From here, turn right and walk toward the rim of the canyon. Follow the rim for 300 yards and locate an approach gully with a 30 foot basalt tower on it's left side. At the bottom of this gully is the Playground.

Routes with Fixed Anchors

A handful of routes at The Playground have two bolt anchors. If you're heading to the Playground with limited gear and/or static line for anchors, here's a list of the routes with bolt anchors (left to right):
  • Unrelenting Nines - Two bolt anchor on big ledge about 12 feet below the rim. Accessible from the top. Long slings helpful.
  • Flying A - Two bolt anchor on downhill side of large boulder on big ledge about 12 feet below the rim. Accessible from the top. Long slings helpful.
  • Tree Climb / Mr. Foster's Lead - Two bolt anchor on big ledge about 8 feet below the rim. Accessible from top. Anchor is near small, dead tree. Quickdraws adequate.
  • Black Wall - Two bolt anchor on big ledge about 6 feet below the rim. Accessible from top. Long slings helpful.
  • Cactus Climb - Two bolt anchor a few inches below the rim. Accessible from top. Quickdraws adequate.
  • Upper Left Roof - Two bolt anchor over the edge of the big ledge that's about 10 feet below the rim. Accessible from top via easy downclimb. Quickdraws adequate.
  • Flakey Nine - Two bolt anchor on the big ledge about 12 feet below the rim. Accessible from the top via short downclimb. Long slings or static rope helpful.

43 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Playground

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 23
Texas
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 43
Beginner's Hand Jam
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
Upper Left Roof
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 12
Mr. Foster's Lead
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 10
Flakey Nine
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
Cactus Climb
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 19
Blow Hole
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
Flying A
Trad, TR
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 20
Unrelenting Nines
Trad, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
 4
Flying A Buttress
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Texas
 23
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Beginner's Hand Jam
 43
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Upper Left Roof
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Mr. Foster's Lead
 12
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Flakey Nine
 10
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Cactus Climb
 16
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Blow Hole
 19
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, TR
Flying A
 18
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
Unrelenting Nines
 20
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad, TR
Flying A Buttress
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in The Playground »

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Wa3lt  
The routes from #24 on are incorrectly numbered. I assume the Beverly guide (which pretty much just copied what I did) made this mistake, which I corrected in pen on my hardcopy many years ago...

Anyway, #24 should be Unknown 5.10d, not Mr. Foster's lead. Numbers should continue from there (ie, Beginner's hand jam #29, etc)

I'll try to upload some photos... Mar 22, 2009
There is a route directly below the play ground, maybe a 5.10a. It goes through 2 bolts up to a nice finger crack that protects with tcu s. there are bolts at the top. It's called Code Brown Apr 27, 2011

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