Elevation: 6,270 ft
GPS: 35.816, -106.191 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 25,794 total · 162/month
Shared By: Mark Mathis on Jul 18, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

The Playground is a 60 foot south-facing basalt cliff. Numerous moderate to difficult crack and face climbs ascend the cliff. Routes at this area are not bolted (by agreement), so be sure to bring your gear to lead. While route bolts are strictly verboten, anchor bolts are allowed. However, the last anchor bolts to be installed (over Beginner's Hand Jam) were chopped and few currently exist, so many climbs require trad gear to establish anchors.

Climbs are numbered from left to right with numbers as in 'Jemez Rock' and as shown in the beta photos.

Getting There

To get to the Playground from NM state road 4, turn south on Rover blvd. After about 100 yards, take a left on Meadow lane. Follow this street (it will slowly curve south) passing the turnoff for the Overlook, and continue to 719 Meadow Lane. Park near by, being careful not to block mailboxes or driveways (several residents have complained in the past). Take the public access trail between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. From here, turn right and walk toward the rim of the canyon. Follow the rim for 300 yards and locate an approach gully with a 30 foot basalt tower on it's left side. At the bottom of this gully is the Playground.

Routes with Fixed Anchors

A handful of routes at The Playground have two bolt anchors. If you're heading to the Playground with limited gear and/or static line for anchors, here's a list of the routes with bolt anchors (left to right):
  • Unrelenting Nines - Two bolt anchor on big ledge about 12 feet below the rim. Accessible from the top. Long slings helpful.
  • Flying A - Two bolt anchor on downhill side of large boulder on big ledge about 12 feet below the rim. Accessible from the top. Long slings helpful.
  • Tree Climb / Mr. Foster's Lead - Two bolt anchor on big ledge about 8 feet below the rim. Accessible from top. Anchor is near small, dead tree. Quickdraws adequate.
  • Black Wall - Two bolt anchor on big ledge about 6 feet below the rim. Accessible from top. Long slings helpful.
  • Cactus Climb - Two bolt anchor a few inches below the rim. Accessible from top. Quickdraws adequate.
  • Upper Left Roof - Two bolt anchor over the edge of the big ledge that's about 10 feet below the rim. Accessible from top via easy downclimb. Quickdraws adequate.
  • Flakey Nine - Two bolt anchor on the big ledge about 12 feet below the rim. Accessible from the top via short downclimb. Long slings or static rope helpful.

44 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Playground

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 23
Texas
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 44
Beginner's Hand Jam
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
Upper Left Roof
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 12
Mr. Foster's Lead
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 11
Flakey Nine
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
Cactus Climb
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 20
Blow Hole
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
Flying A
Trad, TR
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 20
Unrelenting Nines
Trad, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
 4
Flying A Buttress
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Texas
 23
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Beginner's Hand Jam
 44
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Upper Left Roof
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Mr. Foster's Lead
 12
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Flakey Nine
 11
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Cactus Climb
 17
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Blow Hole
 20
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, TR
Flying A
 18
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
Unrelenting Nines
 20
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad, TR
Flying A Buttress
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in The Playground »

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