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Routes in The Playground

Advanced Start T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Barlow's Buttress T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Battle of the Bulge T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beginner's Hand Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Wall T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blow Hole T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Burnt Crack T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cactus Climb T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheeks, The T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Code Brown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Face Variation TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fingertip Layback T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Strike T,S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Flakey Face TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flakey Nine T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flying A T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying A Buttress T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Luke and Carlo's route TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Moment of Inertia T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mononucleosis T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Moon Dog T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Foster's Lead T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Open Project TR 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Original Horak Route T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Playground Traverse V6-7 7A+
Playgrounder, The T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Repo Man T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route 1 T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 16 T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 17 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 18 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 20 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Route 25 T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Route 37 T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 6 T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route 6 (var.) T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
T2 Flake T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Texas T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tree Climb T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unrelenting Nines T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Upper Left Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vulture Roof TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Zander Zigzag T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown, 1970s
Page Views: 1,509 total, 12/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Sep 25, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Probably the longest climb at the Playground, with sustained quality climbing. Blow Hole is one of the only climbs at the Playground that doesn't have the big ledge near the top of the cliff interrupting it.

The immediate first crux is the first 15', where you climb a finger crack with poor feet; this spits off many suitors. Place a good small cam (#0.3 camalot or equivalent) to keep from decking on the rocks. If this is too hard, try to sneak past this from the left or right: you start from the left by stemming between 2 cracks, or move in from even farther left with hands in a big pod, or maybe stem over from blocks to the right of the start. In any case, once you reach the namesake Blowhole (a unique pocket just left of the crack), you'll start the second crux, where you'll work up the overhanging finger crack and mantle onto a big ledge to the left. The rest of the climb follows easier cracks with a more holds on the faces nearby; there is a little bit of rubble near the very top, but it's no big deal.

Falls near the start can be particularly nasty, and at least one accident has occurred here (have your belayer spot you to keep you off the rocks). Falls at the upper crux are clean and airy but on solid gear.

Location

This climb is located at the far right of the Playground, at the rightmost place with sandy ground (before the boulder gully begins).

Protection

1 set wired nuts, 1 set cams up to #2 camalot.
If you haven't set it in advance, save #1, #2, or #3 camalots for the anchor.

Photos

Naomi Galinski
  5.10d
Naomi Galinski  
  5.10d
The beginning is tricky and never really liked it, but the second crux is fun. Once you figure out how to mantel onto the ledge the move is not so bad, just super strenuous. Oct 25, 2011
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.10+
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.10+
There is a big rock to the right of the finger crack start near a blunt arete, you can stem into the crack from this rock and place a high piece, yellow alien or TCU, before getting started. This will protect you through pretty much the whole opening section.

There is actually quite a bit of suspect rock above the crux for maybe the next 15' or so, then the rock improves again up higher. Mar 1, 2009