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Routes in The Playground

Advanced Start T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Barlow's Buttress T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Battle of the Bulge T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beginner's Hand Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Wall T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blow Hole T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Burnt Crack T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cactus Climb T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheeks, The T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Code Brown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Face Variation TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fingertip Layback T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Strike T,S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Flakey Face TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flakey Nine T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flying A T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying A Buttress T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Luke and Carlo's route TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Moment of Inertia T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mononucleosis T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Moon Dog T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Foster's Lead T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Open Project TR 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Original Horak Route T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Playground Traverse V6-7 7A+
Playgrounder, The T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Repo Man T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route 1 T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 16 T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Route 17 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 18 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 20 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Route 25 T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Route 37 T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 6 T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route 6 (var.) T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
T2 Flake T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Texas T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tree Climb T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unrelenting Nines T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Upper Left Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vulture Roof TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Zander Zigzag T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Carl & Lou Horak, 1971(?)
Page Views: 1,023 total · 8/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Sep 12, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This climb is perhaps better now that the cactus isn't there.

Stem past tricky moves off the ground. Easy 5.6ish climbing for the next 30' of the climb leads to a final thin section where the crack narrows to a finger crack, then pinches to a seam. A 2' foot roofs bar progress to the top, which is passed by a big move for the topout jug. The pro at the crux is small nuts or TCUs.

It is also possible to escape left 2/3 of the way up and avoid the crux.

Location

The shallow corner 10' left of the splitter crack (Beginner's Hand Jam). The namesake cactus used to reside on the first ledge 12' up, but it looks like it will never grow back.

Protection

1 ea. cams to 2", 1 ea. nuts, including RPs.
A 2-bolt anchor for Cactus Climb, reachable from the very top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.

Photos

J tot
Tempe, AZ
  5.10b/c PG13
J tot   Tempe, AZ
  5.10b/c PG13
I had to give it a PG13 because the 20ft of 5.8/5.9 climbing in the middle is riddled with holds ready to break... but the hard moves have good rock and gear. Jun 25, 2012
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10c
A fun 5.9-ish variation on this route is to move well to the left after the initial tricky start moves to a the nice-but-too-short wide finger crack to shallow dihedral. Jul 30, 2008

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