Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Len Margolin, 1971
Page Views: 2,999 total · 18/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Sep 12, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


23 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

This White Rock mini classic may just send you flying.

Stem up a "phone booth" chimney and exit it using a reachy crimp to a good stance (1st crux) and a few feet of easy finger crack to a no-hands stem rest. Step left and follow a beautiful thin finger crack using edges on the face to the left, or lieback off the right wall, with TCUs or nuts for pro in the thin finger crack. Committing to a thin section just after the corner changes to the left side is probably the psychological crux for the leader.

Flying A eats up small gear, but the stances to place it from are sometimes strenuous.

Location

Start 10' right of Texas in a A-shaped chimney 8 feet high. This climb is the next crack right of the obvious Texas flake.

Protection

Nuts & cams up to a #0.75 camalot, with doubles in the #0 TCU size. Two brown-painted glue-in bolts anchor in the large boulder on the ledge. 

Photos