All Locations > New Mexico > Los Alamos & Wh… > White Rock > Playground

Upper Left Roof

Name: Upper Left Roof
Rating: 2.6

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in The Playground

L › R R › L A › Z

	Advanced Start T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Barlow's Buttress T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Battle of the Bulge T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Beginner's Hand Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Black Wall T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Blow Hole T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Burnt Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Cactus Climb T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cactus Climb, Left (var.) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Cheeks, The T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Code Brown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Face Variation TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Fingertip Layback T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	First Strike T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Flakey Face TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Flakey Nine T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Flying A T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Flying A Buttress T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Luke and Carlo's Route TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Moment of Inertia T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Mononucleosis T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Moon Dog T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mr. Foster's Lead T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Obsidian Corner TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Open Project TR 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
	Original Horak Route T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Playground Traverse V6-7 7A+
	Playgrounder, The T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Repo Man T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Route 1 T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Route 16 T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Route 17 T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Route 18 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Route 20 T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Route 25 T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Route 27 T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Route 37 T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Route 6 T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Route 6 (var.) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	T2 Flake T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Texas T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Tree Climb T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Unrelenting Nines T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Upper Left Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Vulture Roof TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Zander Zigzag T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:

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Type:	Trad, TR, 75 ft (23 m)
GPS:	35.8164, -106.1912
FA:	unknown, 1970s
Page Views:	2,006 total · 9/month
Shared By:	George Perkins on Sep 12, 2007
Admins:	Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Climb the huge right-facing corner. The first half of the climb has many big ledges and positive holds. From a good ledge, work up a tricky thin hand crack. Traverse left when you reach the roof, stuff some gear in the finger crack overhead, and commit to the crux highstep and lieback moves passing the roof. Keep going to the exit jugs on the ledge.

This, and Beginner's Hand Jam are the most popular 5.9s at the Playground, I think.

The Fingertip Lieback variation begins in the next thin crack to the right. It's rated 10d, and is a fun committing lieback which joins the Upper Left Roof route midway up. It's protectable with small nuts at its crux, then small cams.

You can also finish the route through the next crack to the right to exit the high roof. This is reachy and probably about 5.10+.

Location

Toward the right side of the Playground, a prominent row of 3 high roofs way up high bars easy access to the top. Upper Left Roof follows the prominent right-facing corner that is below the leftmost of these roofs. This climb is the 2nd crack right of the splitter Beginners Hand Jam handcrack.