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Routes in The Playground

Advanced Start T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Barlow's Buttress T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Battle of the Bulge T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Beginner's Hand Jam T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Wall T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blow Hole T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Burnt Crack T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cactus Climb T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cheeks, The T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Code Brown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Face Variation TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fingertip Layback T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Strike T,S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Flakey Face TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flakey Nine T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flying A T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying A Buttress T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Luke and Carlo's route TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Moment of Inertia T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mononucleosis T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Moon Dog T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Foster's Lead T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Open Project TR 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Original Horak Route T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Playground Traverse V6-7 7A+
Playgrounder, The T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Repo Man T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route 1 T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 16 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 17 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 18 T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route 20 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Route 25 T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Route 37 T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Route 6 T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route 6 (var.) T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
T2 Flake T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Texas T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tree Climb T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unrelenting Nines T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Upper Left Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vulture Roof TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Zander Zigzag T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 406 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Jan 26, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Rated 5.9 in the D. Jackson "Rock Climbing NM" book and 5.10c in the J.M. Beverly "Jemez Rock" book, I'd have to say it's somewhere in the middle of those two ratings.
This is a nice but not often climbed route that starts about 20 feet left of Cactus Climb.
Start with moderate moves off the ground on a small rounded prow to a good stance below a tiny roof. Pull over the tiny roof using the finger crack and small but positive edges on the face on both sides of the crack (crux) into the shallow dihedral above. Stem your way to the top using the tiny crack for pro to big jugs to exit onto a large ledge.

This route doesn't see much traffic and is often dirty because it seems it is a natural drainage for rain run-off. A good strategy is to talk your friend into leading it first so he can clean it up a bit for you.

Location

Start in dark rock about 20 feet left of Cactus Climb. Look for the shallow dihedral up high. Belay from above on the large ledge and walk off. This route #26 in ?Wa3lt's beta photo.?

Protection

Doubles of tiny, small and medium cams (up to .5 camalot) along with small wires. WC Superlight Rocks are perfect for this route. One of the bolted anchors at the Playground is at the top of this route. Super long slings or static rope will allow you to clip the bolts and extend the rope carabiners to the edge. Otherwise you'll get some drag and maybe knock some little rocks off the ledge.

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