Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 102 total · 1/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Nov 9, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Start by hopping up on a block to a left-angling flake to a giant pocket which you can heel hook, then continue up a right-angling thin seam up a leaning dihedral that is tricky to get good gear placements (crux), then surmount the end of the overhanging dihedral to exit.

Location

This route is located about 15 feet to the north (right) of Unrelenting Nines.

Protection

Small to medium stoppers and cams, and some huevos. Anchor with gear.

Photos

Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.10c
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
  5.10c
The T2 stands for Texas part two. Nov 9, 2007
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10c PG13
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10c PG13
The upper seam takes small nuts and RPs in tricky placements, also you might look to place a large nut, tricam, or cam in a horizontal or a pocket. Don't bother bringing gear bigger than a #1 camelot on this climb. It's strenuous to hold on while trying to find gear on the upper part, maybe running it out and going for it is the best choice for an onsight attempt.

I think this climb is one of the best ones at the Playground. It's sustained, there aren't any good rests, and it has an intricate crux. And the giant pocket is cool. Don't fuck up, but you won't. Aug 12, 2008
Sky Sjue
Santa Fe
 
Sky Sjue   Santa Fe
 
Bomber offsets can be placed one body length into the thin, overhanging bit after which there are several more opportunities for small nuts, TCUs or sliders (even ignoring the pockets on the face). Not an easy lead, but not dangerous for a competent leader with thin gear.

I agree with George that this is a good climb. Apr 4, 2012