Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown, 1970s
Page Views: 130 total · 1/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Aug 26, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Start with an awkward stemming problem just to the right of Barlow's Buttress, with a weird move onto some crumbly holds to a good rest below the bulge being the crux IMO. Fairly sequency, and demanding of flexibility; pro is small but ok.

The guides say the next bulge following a thin seam is the crux but I did not find it as hard as the difficult part near the beginning.

Turn a small roof on good hand jams, and continue up a slab with lots of pockets, avoiding the giant roof above on the right.

Doing the 1st half of Barlows Buttress and the top half of this climb may be the easiest combination of these two routes (but still 5.9+ or so).

This climb is dirty after rains.

Location

Under the cracks below the rightmost of the roofs which extend over from Upper Left Roof.

Protection

Cams to 3", nuts (incl. micros). Save some gear to build an anchor at the top. A large boulder is there that appears to be solidly attached to the rock below.

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