Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: unknown, 1970s
Page Views: 367 total · 2/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Aug 26, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Interesting cruxes and some harder climbing on this end of the cliff.  Kind of contrived, with some questionable flakes.

Start with a slippery stemming problem just to the right of Barlow's Buttress, with a move onto some crumbly holds to a good rest below the bulge.  A fairly sequency crux IMO.  This will protect well with a nut.

The guides say the next bulge following a thin seam is the crux. I didn't find it as hard as the difficult part near the beginning but my partner found it harder.  This would not have good pro.  Perhaps you could bypass this part by climbing the next crack left instead.

Turn a small roof on good hand jams, and continue up a slab with lots of pockets, avoiding the giant roof above on the right.

Doing the 1st half of Barlows Buttress and the top half of this climb may be the easiest combination of these two routes (but still 5.9+ or so).

Location

Under the cracks below the rightmost of the roofs which extend over from Upper Left Roof.

Protection

Cams to 3", nuts (incl. micros). Save some gear to build an anchor at the top. A large boulder is there that appears to be solidly attached to the rock below.

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