Type: Sport
FA: Jim Shimberg
Page Views: 4,016 total · 31/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 23, 2008 with updates from Jeffrey LeCours
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A diamond in the rough... Most routes at the NW Territories cant hold a candle to this awesome 100 ft long low angle dance capped with a super fun corner.

This climb was retro-bolted and it seems like a good thing to me.
It saw no use as a trad climb and now it sees some use as a sport climb. There was even a little chalk on it the other day when i did it.

Start by clipping a bolt from a low ledge and pulling a boulder problem over a block to get on to the main buttress. The boulder problem is the hardest your muscles will work the whole time you are on the route but be prepared for your brain to get pumped as you think your way through the route finding above. Dance your way up the low angle face climbing for 70 feet or so to a stance below a corner. Stem the corner to a tricky but easy step left and clip the anchors with a little effort (you might wish they were a foot lower).

60m ROPE NEEDED TO LOWER OFF!!!

Location

As you hike up from the boulder field this route will be right in front of you as the trail meets the cliff and it just begs to be climbed.

Protection

12 bolts to quick clips...

You must have a 60m rope to lower off!!!
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.9
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
  5.9
Very enjoyable. Great climbing. Dec 5, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
I think the FA of the bolted route of this was Jim Shimberg Dec 6, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.9
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.9
yup he bolted it... i just fixed it... thanks Dec 6, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
This route is so fun, it absolutely gets four stars! Anyone else say its the best 5.9 in Rumney? Apr 12, 2011
M Sprague
New England
  5.9+
M Sprague   New England  
  5.9+
definitely worth while, but I wouldn't go so far as that. It must have cleaned up a bunch since I did it if you guys are that into it. I remember it being a fun adventure, but having a fair amount of low angle dirty climbing and loose holds. ..nice if it has cleaned up. edit - Changed my mind after reclimbing it! It is excellent. Apr 12, 2011
S. Neoh
5.9+
S. Neoh  
5.9+
Off topic here but has been a subject friends and I have brought up several times in the past - the best 5.9 at Rumney. Dolt(.9 or .10a?)? 2-pitch Rock Du Jours Direct? Yoda or Obiwan? Space? War and Peace? Trigger Happy? Loads of good 10a but 5.9 is a 'tough' grade for Rumney, IMHO. Apr 12, 2011
M Sprague
New England
  5.9+
M Sprague   New England  
  5.9+
What about The Green Mile? (joking. Somebody gave that 4 stars). I think I would have to go for Rock du Jours, mostly for the positioning. Others that I would put on the list of best 9s are Smokestack (aka Coldshoulder), Giant's Chimney (for complete wildness), Slick, Space Shuttle. Black Slabbath is also pretty good, along with Yoda. I can't think of any 9s at Rumney that deserve 4 stars, but there are a bunch of 2 and a number of arguably 3 stars. Apr 13, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.9
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.9
I haven't been on all those that are listed so I guess I might not be able to make that statement yet. However, I will say it is the best .9 I have been on so far, in my opinion better than Yoda or Oby-won :) Mark the rock is lichen free and very clean. The upper corner had a touch of water in one of the cracks but as you know it has rained recently. Very very clean route now. Apr 13, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.9
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.9
i agree Matt that it might be a contender for the best .9 in rumney (and i have done all the routes listed other than giant's chimney)... clean and long, interesting and beautiful...
another of my favorites is Bridge to Nowhere (5.9) which is the second pitch jakob and i added to Abby Normal (5.10c) last year... really fun with great positioning... Apr 13, 2011
S. Neoh
5.9+
S. Neoh  
5.9+
Alright, to all you slab masters, I will have to check this route and Bridge To Nowhere out this year. I have no excuse now that I have a 70m rope on order.
If working hard to send a route is any measure of quality, Smokestack gets my vote for best 5.9 at Rumney. Jay Knower agrees too from what I just read. I actually liked it quite a bit, just a little surprised by how pumpy it felt. Full value; 5.9+ with emphasis on the "+". Apr 13, 2011
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Yeah, I agree with you S. Neoh that Smokestack is the best 5.9 on the hill. It's a 5.9 sport route that climbs like a heinous alpine trad pitch, which is the best of both worlds: safe climbing, but sketchy moves. Do I chimney? Layback? Stem? All three at once? Such is the joy of Smokestack. Apr 13, 2011
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.9
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
  5.9
Mark/Lee, what's Giants Chimney?

Edit: Psyycchhh... I just stumbled upon Lee's map for the Summit Crag and saw it listed there. :) May 10, 2012
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.9
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
  5.9
"This climb was done by me and my friend Rob in 1980. It was terrifying on trad gear and I was a rookie. Worst part of it then was at the top because there and still are only small twigs for trees to belay off of far from the cliff's edge. I rated it 5-6 dismissing the start because it was just a boulder problem."

Comment by bradley white on May 6th, 2009 12:56 pm Jul 20, 2012
bradley white   Bend
There is a pine tree on the left a little higher than mid way. This tree has used by us for rappel. Using this tree for two rappels a 50m ropes works. Aug 24, 2012
S. Neoh
5.9+
S. Neoh  
5.9+
OK, we warmed up on this route today. Nice. Felt a bit harder than Air and Present Danger. And throw in a bit of Jolt. I did not right away think it is the best .9 at Rumney. Sorry!!
The first bolt in the inside corner leading to the finish is too low to protect much especially if you clip a 2-foot sling to it, as recommended in the guide book. Apr 28, 2013
Mike Robinson
Grand Junction, CO
  5.9
Mike Robinson   Grand Junction, CO
  5.9
Thanks Jim!
Best 9 at Rumney, at least that I've done! well worth the hike. After reading comments I'll be looking for Smokestack next Apr 29, 2013
Mike Robinson
Grand Junction, CO
  5.9
Mike Robinson   Grand Junction, CO
  5.9
After doing smokestack (the best 5.9+ in Rumney) I still say this is the best 5.9 : ) May 3, 2013
Matt Stamplis
Boston, MA
Matt Stamplis   Boston, MA
The start just got a lot harder - the large block that this guy's left foot is standing on is gone:
mountainproject.com/v/10710… May 12, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
That's a shame... May 12, 2013
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
fuckin' thieves May 12, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
I haven't gotten the opportunity to climb this yet but have been really stoked on it. How much does this affect the climb? Any idea on the grade? This is really too bad, it looks from the picture that you would use that for hands too... May 12, 2013
M Sprague
New England
  5.9+
M Sprague   New England  
  5.9+
I don't know if I would do a Cannon route with you, Soon! From the ground as I was walking by it a few weeks ago it looked like it had the potential to fall off to me, lol (the lol was especially for Eric) May 12, 2013
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Ha - mark..i got a Cannon route for you

6pitches, independant x for belays 12-ish May 12, 2013
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.9
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
  5.9
I walked by this on the way down on Saturday. A chainsaw will be called for. And yeah... it changes the start just a little.
May 12, 2013
S. Neoh
5.9+
S. Neoh  
5.9+
Mark, I was with Dim and OM. None of us thought the block was detached! Honestly, I was more concerned about breaking off parts of the flakes at the start of Finland.
Chances are we will be curious enough to give the new start a try the next time we are in the neighborhood. May 13, 2013
Ming
  5.9+
Ming  
  5.9+
With that block gone the start is significantly harder - and that is if you use the dead tree's root as a foot on the left of the bolt - and that thing is rotting and flexing so it won't be there for long. The 1st bolt does NOT protect the move - which is now the crux of the route. I would say it's a solid 5.10A now at the start w/using root as a foot, solid 10+ (my guess) without the root. I tried going right and the great crimp that would've kept the grade reasonable broke as I tried - thank goodness we stick clipped the 2nd clip! Without the crimp going right at 1st bolt is probably 11ish move now.

I would recommend drilling a new 1st bolt that is higher and possibly to the left which would protect 1st few moves off the ground, or someone will get hurt! Also I suspect a chainsaw and removing the remnants of the dead tree stump and some cleaning may reveal a softer start that can be protected with a new 1st bolt which will keep the grade at 5.9. I'll be happy to help with the effort. May 19, 2013
tscupp
Englewood, CO
  5.9+
tscupp   Englewood, CO
  5.9+
Climbed this sunday and had similar experience as Ming. Messy start with a lack of a left foot unless you use the rotting tree/stump and even still it makes for a sketchy second clip with the first bolt not protecting much other than a tumble down hill. I tried to clean some holds of dirt but it will probably need a thorough cleaning either right or left before it feels good to climb. May 20, 2013
David Quinn
5.10a/b
David Quinn  
5.10a/b
The loose blocks and root have been removed and the 1st bolt has been repositioned\replaced with a stainless steel glue in. Aug 29, 2013
S. Neoh
5.9+
S. Neoh  
5.9+
Thank you, Dave! I am sure many will appreciate your cleanup and retool.
Is the new start now 9+ or 10? Aug 29, 2013
David Quinn
5.10a/b
David Quinn  
5.10a/b
The credit for this job should go to Smitty, as he did the brunt of the job! I only pitched off the final loose block from the starting ledge, (its still on the ground at the base of the route), and popped in the new bolt. I will try to get the block moved out of the way as soon as I can. The route also needs a little cleaning at the base. The grade has only increased slightly if any, so perhaps 9+, climb it and see what you think. Aug 30, 2013
M Sprague
New England
  5.9+
M Sprague   New England  
  5.9+
I climbed this this weekend. It is a really nice route, a nice long pitch too. My previous characterizations were based on climbing one of the routes to the right I think, years ago. For me the bouldery start went best by laybacking the angling holds left of the bolt, left foot up high and popping my right into a backstep. Then it was a little bit of a move going left to a better hold to get established for moving up. There is one block in the finishing corner that I would avoid using if you can. It looks like it could potentially rip off. There are alternative holds around it though. I think the bouldery start may make the route 9+ now. Sep 30, 2013
David Quinn
5.10a/b
David Quinn  
5.10a/b
The Oak tree blocking the base of the route, (as seen in the photo above) has been removed. Oct 8, 2013
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
I finally was able to get on this yesterday after wanting to do it for a couple years now and just never really getting the chance. What a beautiful climb! A lot of people really hyped this route for me and I'm happy to say it lived up to those expectations. Strong three stars from me. I never got a chance to do the old start but the new one did not seem too bad, 5.9+ sounds about right. Jul 7, 2014
Ming
  5.9+
Ming  
  5.9+
First time back on the route since the new start. Kudos for the cleanup! The first bolt is in a great position now and protects the move! Solid in the 9+ range now with the crux being the starting move. I actually like this router even more now. Definitely one of the best 5.9s at Rumney. May 19, 2015
S. Neoh
5.9+
S. Neoh  
5.9+
Finally did the new start to this route. Thanks for all the cleaning and adding of a glue in. Start is solid at .9+, maybe even .10a. Very nice route. Solid 2.5 stars. Like Ming, I found I liked the route more second time around with the new start. Aug 8, 2015
Eli .
GMC3500
 
Eli .   GMC3500
 
Bring some extendable draws, primarily for the start of the last corner. Rope drag can be a problem. Sep 4, 2015
Jonathan Steitzer
West Lebanon, NH
  5.8+
Jonathan Steitzer   West Lebanon, NH  
  5.8+
Warning - Anchor bolts are both loose. Left one severely loose. Someone with a wrench or ratchet please tighten them down if you climb this.

And since everyone else is offering their 2 cents: Start is easy if you just look for and plan the feet. After that it's fun interesting slab, but I'd say the whole climb is like 5.8. It's about as technically difficult as Morning Glory in Acadia.

That being said, the climb is an absolute blast. Full value, nice and long. Fun start and fun moves throughout. I really enjoyed it.


Start Beta: Everyone's pics seem like you're making it harder than it is. There's an series of easy foot placements to move you right, and it's an easy pop to the right to gain the jugs right of the first couple bolts. From there it's easy as pie.

A lot of the pics people have posted shows them making the start needlessly difficult.

Anyway, enjoy it! Jul 9, 2017
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.9
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.9
Thoughtful and enjoyable climbing requiring a broad skill set. Nov 13, 2017
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
 
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
 
Wow what a climb! Cruxy start, but after that you can be confident you can handle anything the climb throws at you. The bolts are going to feel extremely run out if you are used to the newer Rumney climbs. This will test your lead head! Clipping the anchors was probably the hardest part after the opening crux. Varied climbing including a bouldery start, boltline-esque slab, and dihedral fun. Thank you whoever added the lower bolt protecting the crux moves ~15 feet above the ground. Jun 2, 2018