Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Matthew Keefe 09/2001
Page Views: 765 total · 20/month
Shared By: Eric Leclerc on Nov 8, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

The start is easy on big holds. A series of very good holds(big cracks between blocks, huge side pulls and big underclings)will still request cool moves to get to the last part of the climb. The route finishes with a bouldery sequence to get to the anchor.

Location

One of the first routes you will encounter when coming up from the trail that goes through the boulder field. First bolted line right of Scrubbing Bubbas.

Protection

5 bolts + 2-bolt anchor with one carabiner and one locking carabiner

Photos

Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12b/c
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.12b/c
Go for it Lee, this line is hot, freshly cleaned and ready to be sent.
This is a moderate one for you that could be sent before the end of the season.
Your list of to do's is shortening. Beware of the many underclings... Nov 8, 2015
Seth Cohen
Concord, NH
Seth Cohen   Concord, NH
How the hell do you do the middle of this route?? I tried going up it today and was too stymied at the third bolt to continue. The start indeed has very big holds, but quickly you get to standing with a good left sidepull (from which you can clip the third bolt high), and everything in front of you is blank. There's an undercling way up high, but it's crap from below. There's an arete way out right, but the only decent (read: still bad) spot on it is WAY up high and almost impossible to reach unless you're 5'10" or something. And there aren't any feet anywhere.

If anyone has beta, please spray this comments section the hell down. Jun 25, 2016
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12b/c
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.12b/c
Seth, I went looking at the middle section today even if the underclings were really wet. I think the key when you start from the ledge is a left hand little flake high on your left. Grab that, move your feet up and grad the under with your right hand. Move your feet again and match the undercling. Keep moving your feet up and pinch the cube with your right hand. A little footwork and match the cube. one more foot work and you get to the huge flake. Of course I couldn't do the whole sequence cause it was too wet but I made every single move. The finish looks harder to me. May 28, 2017
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Seth, there's a good crimp up and left that you were probably missing. Makes all the difference. May 29, 2018