Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Joel O'Connel 1990
Page Views: 1,284 total · 16/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Oct 17, 2012
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Recently rebolted and cleaned (2015), this old formerly seldom done test piece should now be more appealing. The climbing certainly warrants more attempts. The route follows the thin vertical seam up the steep face, through a couple shallow overlaps to a short bulge and finishing mantel top-out.

Stick clip the first bolt and fire up in to this mega technical adventure. Coming straight off of a very close onsight attempt I have fresh perspective on this one. Right off the ground every foot placement counts. Small edges and smears tictac your feet up the vertical wall. Follow the seam using locks and sidepulls as well as making full use of micro edges hidden off to the sides. As it steepens at the top the holds get better but energy wanes. The grade on this one includes the top out so don't let off the gas until you have solved the tricky mantel move and topped out.

Location

The thin vertical seam with bolts about midway along the crag. Starts above a small ledge.

Protection

Recently all rebolted (2015) - 6 SS glue-in bolts to anchor with rings. Stick clipping the first bolt highly recommended.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
The route has been scrubbed up and the bolts and anchors all replaced with SS glue-ins. It is ripping, hard, fingery and technical, a great route if you like that style. The old anchor above still needs to be removed and the topout could use a little more brushing up, but it should be fine to climb already.

Make sure you mantle the top out and not just tag the anchors for the tick! I am thinking it may be a little stiff for 12c. May 27, 2015
Pat Ronan  
 
Hopped on it on 9/6, This route was fantastic. The last couple moves are fun, but not nearly as enjoyable and clean as the first 5 bolts. For technical vert climbing, this is an awesome route. Sep 8, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12c
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12c
Just barely missed the onsight yesterday... really nice technical climb... I managed to remove the old anchor junk on top and cleaned it up a tad but it seems like it will need upkeep on the top out... Didn't have energy left and fell at the top on my second go as well... can't wait to finish it up sometime soon :) Oct 28, 2015