Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Chris Smith, 5/14
Page Views: 1,851 total · 30/month
Shared By: Ward Smith on May 20, 2014
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


74 Opinions

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Description

Just left of where the trail meets the cliff at the start of B-B-Buttress. Climb the face just left of B-B Buttress (5.8), then angle up and left on easier ground to the crux headwall (seasonally wet). Still a bit rough, but destined to become a destination for the 5.9 climber.

60 METER ROPE NEEDED!

Protection

12 bolts (all SS glue ins) to LO

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Nice long sport pitch. Much of it is pretty easy, but it is all enjoyable. It is a good warm-up for the routes to the right, as the start doesn't slam you with a crux like BBB. The nice steeper finish makes you pull a little too. Watch the end of your rope. strong 2 stars from me. Each time I do it I like it better, so far. Jul 2, 2014
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
  5.9+
Peter Jackson   Rumney, NH
  5.9+
This is a great line, full of really interesting features and holds. After about 80 feet of cruiser terrain, the top was a welcome puzzler. Save some gas for the finish: it felt stout at the grade.

Very enjoyable. Now that there are two excellent routes right next to each other, I'd make a special trip just to climb this and B-b-buttress. Jul 7, 2014
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
Pete, also don't leave without climbing B-B-Bubbas link-up. I used to deprive myself of Scrubbing Bubbas' top until I could successfully climb the bottom but right after I finally worked out those bottom moves I realized that my thinking was flawed - rock climbing is supposed to be fun and the top half of Bubbas' should not be missed! Jul 7, 2014
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
 
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
 
This route is fantastic. Such a fun time... Apr 19, 2015
S. Neoh
  5.9+
S. Neoh  
  5.9+
Solid at 5.9+. I made a mess of clipping the last draw. Definitely figure this clip out and do it efficiently. Aug 8, 2015
Troy S
Somerville, MA
  5.9
Troy S   Somerville, MA
  5.9
I got on this route and linked it up with the finish for B-B-Buttress, not realizing it takes a hard left where the chimney for B-B starts. It seemed more in line with the route IMO, California Buttress? Anyone? Jul 29, 2016
Ryan Loiselle
Pepperell, MA
 
Ryan Loiselle   Pepperell, MA
 
Troy S - I mistakenly did the same thing linking the lower portion of this climb with B-B-Buttress. I also linked "The Beastie" with the top out for "California Chrome". Both were quite enjoyable! As long as you're having fun, that's all that matters! May 22, 2017
Helen Wang
San Francisco, CA
 
Helen Wang   San Francisco, CA
 
Less enjoyable when the crack near the top is damp but otherwise I loved this climb! Sep 30, 2018