Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,370 total · 24/month
Shared By: M Sprague on May 20, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


50 Opinions

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Description

This is a great link up that avoids the usually mungy and reachy start of Scrubbing Bubbas by climbing the beginning of B-b-buttress, then moving right at the 7th bolt to join Bubbas. The top is fantastic, following steep cracks and other positive holds up an exposed arete. It is pretty well protected, but may feel slightly spicy the first time if it is near your limit. If you are gripping out it is usually a case of needing to reach up for a hidden hold that magically appears when you most need it. The grade is whatever you think the start of B-b-buttress is; 9+ if you climb to the left of the first bolt and keep on your feet.

Location

Left side of the Northwest Territories crag.

Protection

11 bolts to LO. Use a longer draw on the 7th bolt of B-B-buttres then move right to Scrubbing Bubbas. 60 m rope needed. Knot your end. It just makes it. Note - hornets often nest in the upper cracks, so be aware if you are allergic to them.

Photos

Ward Smith
Wendell MA
  5.10a
Ward Smith   Wendell MA
  5.10a
11 bolts to LO. Use a longer draw on the 7th bolt of B-B-buttres then move right to Scrubbing Bubbas. Adds another crux and gets 10a from me. May 20, 2014
M Sprague
New England
  5.9+
M Sprague   New England  
  5.9+
Thanks, Ward. I'll correct it above. May 20, 2014
S. Neoh
  5.10a/b
S. Neoh  
  5.10a/b
Very good route. The top headwall was tough on onsight. "Magical" hold on the right not easy to find. A member of our party later found a more efficient way to solve the top headwall at 5.9. The way I did it with "magical" hold was more like .10a/b. Aug 8, 2015
M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
I'd agree with 5.10a/b for the stout move at the beginning of B-b-buttress (where the block fell off). Nothing harder than 5.9+, though certainly a bit spicy and not obvious, up high. Good route! Sep 21, 2015
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
Definitely gets 10a if you have to deal with the hornets that nest on the upper half. Nov 12, 2015
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Had to deal with over 20 hornets nesting in the upper cracks. I made it out fine, and managed to send, but the beautiful looking cracks were basically off limits and I had to use some crimps to make it work. If you have a bee allergy or aren't confident at the grade, I'd say don't lead this.

Regardless, it was a fun link up, and the line seems just as natural as staying left on B-B-Buttress. It's tough to decide which finish is funner. Apr 17, 2016