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Routes in The Northwest Territories

Air Barrier S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Angry Inch, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Approaching Armageddon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
B-B-Bubbas link-up S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
B-B-Buttress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Battle of the Bulge S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Beastie, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beerless Leader T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
California Chrome S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hard Times S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hocus Focus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Like Old Times S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nine Eleven S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Paper Wafer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Plate Tectonics S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Primitive Times T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scrubbing Bubbas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shine On S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Times Like These S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wimp And Peel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jim Shimberg 2001
Page Views: 1,007 total, 11/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 25, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

I'm trying to picture the route clean and dry to find it more appealing. But that's not how I experienced it, and that's the typical state of it. But here's how it is.

Behind a big boulder leaning on a tree find a mossy, normally wet corner with two visible bolts on a slightly steep face. Climb the corner laying back crimping and stemming. The crux is pulling out of the corner on to a slab. It's pretty tough. I ended up with a finger lock and a handjam when pulling the crux bulge. After pulling the crux climb fun lichen covered slab till you hit the clean corners on the upper 1/3 of the climb this section is classic (these corners were what made me want to do the route). Fun and interesting climbing mostly on cracks leads to a final slab romp to the anchors.

Over all, I wouldn'tgo out of your way to do the first half but if you started on bb-b-butress and finished on the upper half of this it would be fantastic!

Location

Just right of B-b-butress 5.9. Starting behind the leaning boulder.

Protection

10 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Ming  
As it was completely soaked on the bottom I aided the crux move to traverse left and it was a mellow 5.10A A0. With one aid move you do not get muddy and manky and it made the climb much more pleasant for me. Much mellower and actually more fun than doing the 11ish move. Apr 15, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
ive done perfectly blunt a few times, when i do it right it feels 5.10+ when i mix up my beta it feels 5.12 haha... Feb 8, 2014
S. Neoh  
I've never been on Bubbas but I've been on Schultz and Perfectly Blunt. I thought both were so much harder than say, Waimea the climb or Dirty Dozen, both .10d. Even "cheating" on Perfectly Blunt by going right after the last draw was desperate for me. Feb 6, 2014
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.10d
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.10d
You are so right Lee about the style thing... Perfectly Blunt 10d is another one that I found harder than Scrubbing Bubbas. Feb 5, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
might be a style thing schultz was pretty cruiser for me... welp, there are all kinds of climbers out there... keeps it fun :) Feb 3, 2014
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.10d
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.10d
The bottom part was wet when I did it and I missed the onsight.
I first thought I missed the onsight because it was wet but I soon realized that the crux was way stiffer than 10b.
After working the crux a bit, I would say 10d and not 11a. You just got to be efficient doing the moves.
Definitely not harder than Sargent Schultz 10d at Triple Corners. Feb 3, 2014
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
The first two clips feel easy 10ish but pulling above the overhang definitely felt 11ish. Maybe I'm missing something there. Teach me Jim! :) A fun link-up would be running it's neighbor to the left into the top of half of this. B-b-bubbas? Sep 14, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
oh, one more thing, i gave it 2 stars cause the top deserved 4 and the bottom is a bomb so i went down the middle... i wish the whole thing was as clean as the top... Sep 12, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I sent this one today and rerated it as 5.11a. i did the simplest beta i could find and it felt quite hard at its previous grade...
weigh in on the grade if youve done it... Sep 12, 2010