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Routes in The Dome

Bishop Jaggers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bolts to Somewhere T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burke Box Ball Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Connections T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dire Straits T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dos Equis T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuzzy Thinking T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Look out, Sarah! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
PTL Club T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Pornographic Motions T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
RU Red I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Resurrection T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rhythm Scratch T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Sea Of Holes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
South Side Johnny T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sposi-Isaacs Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Topographical Oceans T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Village People T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
YMCA Right Variation aka Tom's Crack Attack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Steve Jenkins and Dave Dangle, FFA: Jenkins, Dangle, Keith, Trout, 1986
Page Views: 1,600 total · 13/month
Shared By: brent pohlmann on Nov 7, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Route Info

P1: Climb the disjointed cracks to a bolt. Pull the crux after the bolt and reach a huge ledge you can unrope at. Belay at a tree.

P2: Starts with a terrifying slab through a crack (pro to 2") and then 4 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

P3: 6 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. The Green Colorado Guide gives this pitch 5.11, but it's not that hard. After the the crux, you clip a bolt and can't see any more bolts. The anchor is just out of sight. From here, you can climb the slab to the summit at 5.0.

A sixty meter rope gets you down.


To the right of Topographical Oceans.


Bolts & gear to at least a #3 Camalot.


Shane Zentner
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Pitch 1 (5.10): As mentioned by Brent, follow discontinuous cracks to the slab, clip the bolt (5.10), and belay at the big tree. Small gear.

Pitch 2 (5.9+/5.10): Climb onto the sloping ledge from the pine tree with slings. I used the water groove with the left hand/foot and the small holds with the right hand/foot placements and worked my way right, then up to the crack. The crack takes small gear to a #3 Camalot. I placed a #0.4 Camalot at the start of the crack and a #2 Camalot higher, though I would have placed more gear if I would have brought it.

It is strongly suggested that you protect the crack well, because when the crack runs out, the bolt above you is 15' feet higher on steep slab (5.9+R).

Pitch 3 (5.10++). I didn't lead this pitch, but was thoroughly challenged to the bitter end. Awesome pitch as this is the best pitch on the route. Six bolts to the two bolt anchor. Nov 26, 2007
The FA was done by Steve Jenkins and Dave Dangle. The bolts were put in maybe around 1985? We thought it was 11a back then. I haven't been on it for over 20 years. What's Sea of Holes rated these days? Dec 6, 2007
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
  5.10+ PG13
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
  5.10+ PG13
I smell a sandbag......The last pitch is at least 10+, and Trout's guide gives it a 11b rating.

Sea of Holes is still .11a/b and seems easier to me than PM, but maybe that is due to the nature of the climbing. Dec 6, 2007
brent pohlmann
San Francisco, CA
brent pohlmann   San Francisco, CA
Smell a sandbag? I'm the guy who told everyone I was a 5.11 climber after doing an 11a in Boulder Canyon!
The last pitch is no harder than the last pitch of Topographical Oceans, which gets 10b. If you think this pitch is 11b, you should check out Miss Manners on Little Scraggy Dome. It gets consensus 11a and it's considerably harder than Pornographic Motions. The rock quality on pitch 3 of Pornos isn't so great, and I guessed that maybe when they originally climbed this pitch is was MUCH worse, hence the 11b rating. Also you can pimped by going left through the crux when you should go right....who knows....
Besides, if you survive pitch 2 without losing your mind, pitch 3 will feel like a walk in the park!
However, I don't want to be a sandbagger, and if you guys really think this pitch is 11b, then that means I'm "The Man", and I thank you for confirming this. Dec 7, 2007
Now we have to change Brent's nickname from Mad Dog to Mad Sandbagger! I knew it was always him that was the sandbagger and not me... Dec 8, 2007
Boulder, CO
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
Sooo, where on the Dome is this? Jan 13, 2010
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
  5.10+ PG13
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
  5.10+ PG13
In the picture above, the black streak in the foreground is the crux pitch of Topographical Oceans. If you hike around to Connections and look up and right, you will see the one bolt protecting the first pitch. Jan 14, 2010
john durr
Joshua Tree, CA
john durr   Joshua Tree, CA
The original hand drawn topo for the route list the FFA as: Jenkins, Dangle, Keith, Trout, 1986 and was originally rated 5.10c. Originally with just 2 bolts on the second pitch, the FFA team returned to place two more just a bit later. Sep 4, 2010
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
The move above the bolt on the first pitch is somewhat scary. Watch out for the flake below if you blow it! Oct 13, 2010
Princess Mia
Princess Mia   Vail
Exciting and spicy!!!! But with new bolts. 5.10 rating is appropriate. Another South Platte classic!!!! Deserves many stars. Jun 27, 2011

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