Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|Page Views:||167 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||tobias nitchka on Nov 29, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
The climb: I couldn't find this route mentioned in either Hubbel's or Trout's books. Don't know if I can really claim the first ascent, but since no one else has...
You'll need four-five large cams for the first section, a vertical crack that widens as it goes. Decent jamming. I grabbed a big, sketchy flake inside the crack about twenty-five feet up where it had widened, which gave some respite from strenuous climbing. However, this flake is no longer there. My partner pulled or pushed the thing out after he was past. (It made a helluva crash below. I couldn't see anything and was a tad worried; I figured he'd either taken out his wife (hence the climb's name), or my dog, or both... but he'd cleared them out of the way first.) So this climb may be a bit harder now...
Anyway, once you're past the steep section you can set up a belay and bring your partner up to the midway point, then walk across to the north and pick the next short crack you like (there are at least three to choose from). Instead of doing this, I climbed straight on. After the slab, there's one 5.9+ move that takes a medium/small cam to protect, then you can run it out up the easier slab above.
The descent: it's long and circuitous! You may want to climb some of the short cracks at the midway section to get your money's worth before you top out. Anyway, climb on up the gully; there's a wicked off-width on your right. Then circle back around to your left-- north (more good looking single pitch cracks there), then west, and work your way out down slabs and boulders. Cool area. Great views of mountains south of Mt Evans, and back at Pikes Peak as well. Hardly anyone seems to go out here...