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Pornographic Motions
5.10- PG13,
Trad, Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 2.8 from 5
votes
FA: Steve Jenkins and Dave Dangle, FFA: Jenkins, Dangle, Keith, Trout, 1986
Colorado
> S Platte
> Cathedral Spire…
> Dome
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure - at least until Aug. 15, 2025
Details
Per Josh: for the first time in at least 5 years, it appears we have nestlings at the peregrine falcon eyrie at Cathedral Spires! The breeding pair has been present and made attempts at nesting all those years but have not gotten this close to fledging a nest in that time.
Ornithologists across the Front Range have noted that migration and the onset of the avian breeding season seemed to be delayed by around 7-10 days this year, possibly because of the timing and amount of spring precipitation. The peregrines at Cathedral laid eggs later than usual. Because of that, their nestlings may not be ready to leave the nest by the time our usual seasonal closure would end, after July 31. As such, the closure this year will remain until at least August 15 (an opening of August 16). This should give the nestlings the time they need to finish development and leave the nest area. 2023 info:
jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates:
jeffco.us/open-space/parks/… Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Access Issue: Private Property on current approach
Details
Per
T D: the current approach goes through private property.
Route Info
P1: Climb the disjointed cracks to a bolt. Pull the crux after the bolt and reach a huge ledge you can unrope at. Belay at a tree.
P2: Starts with a terrifying slab through a crack (pro to 2") and then 4 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
P3: 6 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. The Green Colorado Guide gives this pitch 5.11, but it's not that hard. After the the crux, you clip a bolt and can't see any more bolts. The anchor is just out of sight. From here, you can climb the slab to the summit at 5.0.
A sixty meter rope gets you down.
Location
Protection
Bolts & gear to at least a #3 Camalot.
![Good day for it!<br>
Photo by Traskos.<br>
<br>
Climber listed belayed by his better half!]()
[Hide Photo] Good day for it! Photo by Traskos. Climber listed belayed by his better half!
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Colorado
Pitch 2 (5.9+/5.10): Climb onto the sloping ledge from the pine tree with slings. I used the water groove with the left hand/foot and the small holds with the right hand/foot placements and worked my way right, then up to the crack. The crack takes small gear to a #3 Camalot. I placed a #0.4 Camalot at the start of the crack and a #2 Camalot higher, though I would have placed more gear if I would have brought it.
It is strongly suggested that you protect the crack well, because when the crack runs out, the bolt above you is 15' feet higher on steep slab (5.9+R).
Pitch 3 (5.10++). I didn't lead this pitch, but was thoroughly challenged to the bitter end. Awesome pitch as this is the best pitch on the route. Six bolts to the two bolt anchor. Nov 26, 2007
Evergreen, CO
Sea of Holes is still .11a/b and seems easier to me than PM, but maybe that is due to the nature of the climbing. Dec 6, 2007
San Francisco, CA
The last pitch is no harder than the last pitch of Topographical Oceans, which gets 10b. If you think this pitch is 11b, you should check out Miss Manners on Little Scraggy Dome. It gets consensus 11a and it's considerably harder than Pornographic Motions. The rock quality on pitch 3 of Pornos isn't so great, and I guessed that maybe when they originally climbed this pitch is was MUCH worse, hence the 11b rating. Also you can pimped by going left through the crux when you should go right....who knows....
Besides, if you survive pitch 2 without losing your mind, pitch 3 will feel like a walk in the park!
However, I don't want to be a sandbagger, and if you guys really think this pitch is 11b, then that means I'm "The Man", and I thank you for confirming this. Dec 7, 2007
Flagstaff, AZ
Vanlife
Evergreen, CO
Joshua Tree, CA
Denver
Vail
Brentwood, NH