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Routes in The Dome

Bishop Jaggers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bolts to Somewhere T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burke Box Ball Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Connections T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dire Straits T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dos Equis T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuzzy Thinking T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Look out, Sarah! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
PTL Club T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Pornographic Motions T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
RU Red I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Resurrection T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rhythm Scratch T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Sea Of Holes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
South Side Johnny T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sposi-Isaacs Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Topographical Oceans T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Village People T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
YMCA Right Variation aka Tom's Crack Attack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Joe Burke, Fred Box, & Jenny Ball
Page Views: 773 total · 8/month
Shared By: rob bauer on Feb 2, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is on the left flank on the South side of The Dome. It is left of Bishop Jaggers, left of the curving, right-facing corner of the main face, and just left of Stars of Mars (listed in the Hubbel book).

I can't believe this isn't listed! It is a great route at the grade, but old-school run-outs probably keep the numbers low. There are 2 pitches. I didn't recall the second pitch being much harder, but it was more run-out for sure as the angle drops off. (Feel free to add corrections.)

Location

Find this left of Stars of Mars on the left flank/South face; not as far over as the South Side crack routes.

Protection

I checked "sport", but WAY trad in the Platte tradition, in that there are relatively few bolts [read: you could get hurt]. A medium cam at the roof with a runner, 3 QDs, plus something for the anchors. I always use 2 ropes to rap; no clue whether a 70 meter rope could get you down.

Photos

I lead this 1st ascent from the ground up, no prev. rappel/view, etc., on 10-15-1983 with Fred Box & Jenny Ball (now @ Neptune Mtn.). All of us still live in Boulder today (4-10-16).
When I got to the first spot I could place bolt #1, I saw a broken drill bit in a hole next to where I drilled mine on lead. I have no idea of "its" history & saw no more evidence of a prev. climb from there on.
All bolts were placed on lead by hand.
This was my 1st "1st" & done with my best friends!

I came back on 6-29-1985 & lead the 1st ascent of "the Stars of Mars" with Marlene Griffith (now in Idaho) whose nick name was & is... "Mars".
I would like to thank my climbing partners for all of the time it took me to drill those bolts on lead!!!

Joe Burke (now 68) 4-10-16
Apr 10, 2016
rob bauer
Golden, CO
  5.10a
rob bauer   Golden, CO
  5.10a
Thanks for two amazing routes and the history! Apr 10, 2016

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