Type: Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Gene Ellis, George Watson, Shirl Jones, 09/91
Page Views: 321 total · 5/month
Shared By: Moritz B. on Oct 19, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Pitch 1: Ascend a slabby face and follow the bolt line. The climbing becomes tricky once you are getting closer to the roof. Get ready for some action. The face steepens, the footholds are crumbly and you are a good bit over the last bolt. Keep your shit together, and look for crimps once it is getting steep. Place pro in the undercling (I placed an orange Metolius) and layback/jam the crack (0.75 cam, good jams). Belay from atop the crack (bolted belay).

Pitch 2: Ascend more crumbly, steep slab and convince yourself this is fun. Overcome the runout after the third bolt (easier terrain, 5.8), and reach the tree. From there, follow a super easy crack (5.5), place some pro and reach a giant ledge. Belay from a bolted belay.

To reach the true summit, join the last pitch of Bishop´s Jaggers.

Location

Looking straight at The Dome you are prompted with two obvious roofs. The big main roof on the center of the dome and a smaller roof, with only one tree atop, to the left. Aim for the left roof on your approach. The route ascends the very left side of the roof. It is easy to identify since the bolts on this route are not oldschool (unlike its neighbors´ bolts). It is the route furthest to the left.

Protection

Good bolts, Standard rack up to #1. Bring a #2 if you plan on doing the last pitch of Bishop´s Jaggers (not mandatory).

Photos

Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
 
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
 
This is a pretty fun and exciting route and especially easy to access after you've done the main events at the Bishop. Jan 25, 2014