Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Dome

Bishop Jaggers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bolts to Somewhere T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burke Box Ball Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Connections T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dire Straits T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dos Equis T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuzzy Thinking T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Look out, Sarah! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
PTL Club T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Pornographic Motions T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
RU Red I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Resurrection T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rhythm Scratch T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Sea Of Holes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
South Side Johnny T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sposi-Isaacs Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Topographical Oceans T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Village People T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
YMCA Right Variation aka Tom's Crack Attack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Tony Bubb and Kateri Ahrendt, 5/25/13
Page Views: 55 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 25, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is a good climb that might benefit from a good scrubbing. One of the cruxes is 5.10 and is some distance above a doubled-down yellow Camalot placement. At some point thereafter (still hard climbing), the distance to a slab below is less than twice the distance above your protection and would be a very ugly fall. This should be considered R.

Climb up the initial 30-40' of YMCA through the wide section to a slabby ledge. On the right side of the dihedral there is a crack that runs from 0.75" to 3", starting out right and leaning left back inwards. Start on this (2") and pass some thinner sections (green and purple Camalot, then stoppers) before it opens back up to hand sizes. This leaning crack is the quality highlight of the route and is actually quite good. As you reach the top of the crack, it bottoms out and you can get shallow jams or a yellow Camalot or two. I placed both.... The crack is gone and some sidepulls remain. Use these and some sloper feet to power up and onto the arete, climbing that to the top, now level with the roof of YMCA Right Variation aka Tom's Crack Attack. This is the most 'exciting' part of the climb.

Get a semi-positive, but perhaps crumbly hanging spike, for a hold and lean out right from the arete into the top of the YMCA roof and left-handed jam, swing over left of the arete on that, being careful here not to loose footing (very bad fall if you did), and power over and up to the face again, above the roof.

Finish on YMCA Right Variation aka Tom's Crack Attack (5.6) to the edge or go 4' right on a ledge to the tree above Overtime, and rap from slings and a ring.

Location

This route starts as for YMCA Right Variation aka Tom's Crack Attack, but once past the initial wide section down low, look for a left-leaning hand and finger crack that splits the right side of the dihedral... for 60 before ending.

Protection

Rack to a #4 Camalot. The old style might be best.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments