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Routes in The Dome

Bishop Jaggers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bolts to Somewhere T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burke Box Ball Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Connections T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dire Straits T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dos Equis T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuzzy Thinking T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Look out, Sarah! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
PTL Club T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Pornographic Motions T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
RU Red I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Resurrection T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rhythm Scratch T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Sea Of Holes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
South Side Johnny T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sposi-Isaacs Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Topographical Oceans T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Village People T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
YMCA Right Variation aka Tom's Crack Attack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 107 total, 1/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Oct 10, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is a fun climb. It begins out of a little pod on the left side of the crag. Climb up the wide crack left side in. Keep palming, smearing, back-stepping, and heal-toeing for what seems like forever (60M on the button). There is usually a good smear, or pebble out on the face every once in a while for a good rest, and good progression. The crux is probably in the beginning of the wide-ness, and/or the sustained nature of the climb.

Walk to the climber's right from the top to a gully(60-70??). Scramble 40 feet to the chockstones, these chockstones are at the top of the climb Cruiser, and South Side Johnny. Rappel to back to boulder hopping with one rope from a slung chockstone.

Protection

The guidebook says pro to 4 inches. That would build an anchor at the top of the climb, but, be useless except for one placement. This climb is 200 feet of non-stop wide crack (10-24 inches or so). Long pants, and long sleeved shirt nice.

Photos

Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
 
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
 
George, It is quite wide for the vast majority. At about maybe 40- 60 (?) feet somewhere, you can get a small cam (0.5, or 0.75 cam in a crack on the face behind you as you are climbing). It's a fun climb in a scenic area. We thought we were on "Prairie Dog Crematorium" until we got another look at the topo. Oct 15, 2003
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
What do you mean here regarding pro? You can only get one piece of pro the entire pitch? Doesn't sound like even a #4 big bro would fit. Oct 14, 2003