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YMCA Right Variation aka Tom's Crack Attack
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1 from 2
votes
Routes in The Dome
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Bishop Jaggers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bolts to Somewhere T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Burke Box Ball Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Connections T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dire Straits T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dos Equis T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fuzzy Thinking T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Look out, Sarah! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pornographic Motions T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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PTL Club T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Resurrection T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rhythm Scratch T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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RU Red I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Sea Of Holes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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South Side Johnny T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sposi-Isaacs Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Topographical Oceans T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Village People T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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YMCA Right Variation aka Tom's Crack Attack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.41867, -105.26798 |
| FA: | ?? |
| Page Views: | 841 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | The Internet on Oct 10, 2003 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure - at least until Aug. 15, 2025
Details
Ornithologists across the Front Range have noted that migration and the onset of the avian breeding season seemed to be delayed by around 7-10 days this year, possibly because of the timing and amount of spring precipitation. The peregrines at Cathedral laid eggs later than usual. Because of that, their nestlings may not be ready to leave the nest by the time our usual seasonal closure would end, after July 31. As such, the closure this year will remain until at least August 15 (an opening of August 16). This should give the nestlings the time they need to finish development and leave the nest area.
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
This crack forms a big Y in the southside cracks area of the Dome. The left crack is is a thin hand crack/layback. The right crack is wider and has some good jams.
The first section starts out in a short, wide-ish crack leading up to a ledge just below a triangle shaped roof. It is likely that you could continue through this ledge in one pitch, but I stopped here for a closer belay. From here, climb up a bushy dihedral for about 20 foot, then take your choice of directions for the roof. Going right, I found some hand jams and good pro. Top out through some ledges and a short wide section in the corner. The crux section is fun with some good exposure. The rest of the climb has some fun moves, but it has its share of bushes and loose rock.
There is a good decent to the climbers right from the top. Scramble down the gully for about 40 feet towards some big chockstones at the top of a chimney. There is a slung chockstone here with rap rings. Do a one rope rappel to the base of the climbs.
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