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Routes in The Dome

Bishop Jaggers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bolts to Somewhere T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burke Box Ball Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Connections T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dire Straits T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dos Equis T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fuzzy Thinking T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Look out, Sarah! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
PTL Club T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Pornographic Motions T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
RU Red I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Resurrection T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rhythm Scratch T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Sea Of Holes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
South Side Johnny T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sposi-Isaacs Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Topographical Oceans T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Village People T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
YMCA Right Variation aka Tom's Crack Attack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: ??
Page Views: 108 total, 1/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Oct 10, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This crack forms a big Y in the southside cracks area of the Dome. The left crack is is a thin hand crack/layback. The right crack is wider and has some good jams.

The first section starts out in a short, wide-ish crack leading up to a ledge just below a triangle shaped roof. It is likely that you could continue through this ledge in one pitch, but I stopped here for a closer belay. From here, climb up a bushy dihedral for about 20 foot, then take your choice of directions for the roof. Going right, I found some hand jams and good pro. Top out through some ledges and a short wide section in the corner. The crux section is fun with some good exposure. The rest of the climb has some fun moves, but it has its share of bushes and loose rock.

There is a good decent to the climbers right from the top. Scramble down the gully for about 40 feet towards some big chockstones at the top of a chimney. There is a slung chockstone here with rap rings. Do a one rope rappel to the base of the climbs.

Protection

Standard rack, maybe a couple extra in the medium-hand size. A #4 Camalot protects the crux well, and there is a good yellow Alien placement after the roof.

Photos

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Jonathan Stickel
Golden, CO
 
Jonathan Stickel   Golden, CO
 
Haas et al. guidebook calls this Tom's Crack Attack. We did the left variation today. The crux section was fun, but the bushes and low-angle sections hardly make it worth it, so one star.

I tried to do the right variation first, but the feet were terrible, and, without taped hands, I gave up after a bit. I'd say that the right variation is harder than 5.10a. Oct 1, 2016