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Routes in The Dome
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Bishop Jaggers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bolts to Somewhere T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Burke Box Ball Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Connections T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dire Straits T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dos Equis T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fuzzy Thinking T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Look out, Sarah! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pornographic Motions T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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PTL Club T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Resurrection T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rhythm Scratch T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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RU Red I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Sea Of Holes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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South Side Johnny T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sposi-Isaacs Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Topographical Oceans T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Village People T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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YMCA Right Variation aka Tom's Crack Attack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 620 ft (188 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.41867, -105.26798 |
| FA: | Duncan Ferguson with either or Chris Reveley /Jim Walsh |
| Page Views: | 15,733 total · 54/month |
| Shared By: | Ray Snead on Dec 31, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure - at least until Aug. 15, 2025
Details
Ornithologists across the Front Range have noted that migration and the onset of the avian breeding season seemed to be delayed by around 7-10 days this year, possibly because of the timing and amount of spring precipitation. The peregrines at Cathedral laid eggs later than usual. Because of that, their nestlings may not be ready to leave the nest by the time our usual seasonal closure would end, after July 31. As such, the closure this year will remain until at least August 15 (an opening of August 16). This should give the nestlings the time they need to finish development and leave the nest area.
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
This is the Dome's historic ultraclassic. There is mandatory excitement around the roof on the 2nd pitch (as described here) - no way to dog this one. Start near the center of the face at an obvious, easy crack.
P1. Climb the crack (5.5, gear) to its top [optional belay], then friction up to join Topographical Oceans for the first three bolts of its second pitch (5.9). Veer left, then climb up and right to a belay at an arch, 230'.
P2. Climb right around the arch-roof (5.9) with courage, then follow a ramp up and left to a belay above the arch, 80'.
P3. Climb up past a bolt to an overlap, and turn it on the right (5.6) or left (5.9), and continue up left to a belay, 150'.
P4. Move left on a ramp to a wide-ish crack, climb it (5.8) to the easy summit slabs, 160'.
Walkoff: downclimb to the east to descend.
Per Cory N: alternatively, head north into the second obvious gully that descends to the west. Spot a dead tree and some 4th Class downclimbing towards a cave-like formation created by a few leaning boulders. If there is snow and ice on this, it will be quite adventurous. There is tat under the large boulder that cannot be seen until you go into the cave. This rappel is above "Cruiser" and is about 100'. Hike south following some cairns back to the base of the The Dome.
Per Jesse Morehouse: the above is with a single 60m rope.
With a single 70m rope: R1 - rap from summit to large ledge climbers left of final OW crack looking for 2 bolts equalized with cord. R2 - rap hard climber's right back to the P3/4 double bolt anchor. R3 - rap climber's left of the double tree above the roof to anchors immediately on the face below. R4 - identify anchors below, and rap to them. R5 - rap to ground in the vicinity of Topographical Ocean's start.
With double 60m ropes: R1 - rap from summit to the P3/4 double bolt anchors. Be very careful routing the rope or it will be extremely difficult to pull. R2 - rap climber's left past double tree above roof down to the right hand set of anchors about 75 feet under the roof. These have a Leeper hanger off to the side you can admire while your partner joins you. R3 - rap back to your packs. It is probably a great idea to pull down the tail of one rope then walk as far left as possible to fully pull your rope to avoid possible snags.
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