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Routes in Triple Corners Right

Chris Hassig's Memorial Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dirty Dozen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jigsaw Puzzle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Left El Diego S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Dike T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Middle Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Murk Trench S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perfectly Blunt S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rack for Sale S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spiders in the faith T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Still My Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sun Bowl S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Technical Second S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trigger Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twelve Pack S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Mark Sprague 5/96
Page Views: 183 total, 1/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 21, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Up the corner past a technical tricky spot and on to a roomy ledge with a dying tree on it. Break left just under the tree and follow a line of bolts up the steep wall above. There is a crux overcoming the steepest part of the wall and on to some decent crimps. A little run out here... Climb a crack to the right clipping a thank god bolt on the left and up to the chains.

A great climb that is plagued by wetness (just the first half) and tucked in to a corner that is not often explored. But it is very worth while when dry.

Location

Start in the often wet corner just left of Lichen Dike.

Protection

10 bolts to anchors.

Photos

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S. Neoh  
I have done Dirty Dozen a number of times but never this route. Thanks for the tip about bring an extra cam/nut for the runout section. High on my Rumney to-do list this Fall. Aug 12, 2016
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I reclimbed this recently and remembering it was a bit run out, I was glad I brought the random cam that was in the bottom of my pack. It made getting to the bolt a lot more comfortable. A fat finger sized cam or even a large nut will work well. I am contemplating rebolting it a bit, but that will wreck the name, though I guess it could be a dozen bolts and anchor;) I was pleasantly surprised at how good the actual climbing was after all these years, but it was a nice dry day.I agree with Nick that it could use some recleaning on the bottom and to avoid when wet. Aug 12, 2016
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10d
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10d
The manky, mossy start to Twelve Pack (and to Dirty Dozen) is fine when dry, but really nasty when wet, and it is often wet. This route is harder than Dirty Dozen (more technical and more beta-dependent), but it's definitely worth doing. However, there is a twelve foot run-out between the bolt protecting the crux and the next one. This is a difficult section of the climb. You're going a l-o-n-g way if you blow the clip on that last bolt. Aug 12, 2016