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Routes in Triple Corners Right

Chris Hassig's Memorial Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dirty Dozen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jigsaw Puzzle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Left El Diego S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Dike T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Middle Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Murk Trench S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perfectly Blunt S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rack for Sale S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spiders in the faith T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Still My Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sun Bowl S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Technical Second S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trigger Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twelve Pack S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bradley White and Ryan Barber, 2011
Page Views: 603 total, 8/month
Shared By: bradley white on Aug 2, 2011 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

The dike gully that is the winter ice climb 'K9' done by Chris Hassig now has a sport route on the wall right of the gully. The climb has not been cleaned yet. We ascended it lichen covered. It begins by a boulder problem. When the dike is dry a (5.5) start can be done. Otherwise the center of this grey rock can be done at (5.8). After the 10ft boulder problem the grade drops to (5.4). So the first bolt is twenty feet up. That is the (R) section. The remainder of the climb is (PG). Climb directly up past the bolts until able to move right onto ramp (5.9). There is a cammed into place 5lb rock you'll climb pass. It's solid for now. At this section your belayer can move around right out of the way of this boxed in gully. Belaying at the top of this boxed in gully is very much not recommened and wearing a helmet is recommened. Getting unto the ramp is tricky and the ramp is easier. Ramp ends at the ceiling. There is a large block within the ceiling. Getting over the block and past this ceiling is the 10ft crux. There are two possibly loose rocks left of this giant block. You'll be way off route. Don't touch them because if they are loose you'll likely kill your belayer and other climbers below. After the ceiling to the right is a foot ledge and there are three bolts for rappel. I'll clean the route of its lichen. The lichen on the lower section is slippery and the upper lichen covers a climber with black crumbs. I didn't get the ceiling crux because I wasted my arms putting in two bolts on the lead and pushing loose flakes above the block into its reccesses. Ryan's ceiling lead was done by hang dogging the (5.10) crux and I held onto slings to clip on the lower section. It's an exciting climb. If the (5.10) section can not be done by someone you can lower off the two bolts below the block. I tried to do a rope solo of it and retreated after the first bolt placement. The rest was rappel bolted except for two bolts done on the lead.

Location

Begins on the grey wall right of the boxed in gully.

Protection

10 bolts and four of the ten are for rappel purposes. A number (2.5) friend can be placed before the first bolt although you won't get to this placement until twenty feet up. Medium cam trad gear can be placed below the block. Rappel anchored.

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Ladd

  5.10 R
Ladd    
  5.10 R
Climbed this one as part of a challenge, and glad a repeat is not in the cards for me.
Lots of lichen and loose rock, pulled out a football sized clipping jug at the second bolt and then took it back down to the belay. It would have killed my belayed for sure. The crux section is definitely not made any easier by the exfoliating footholds which fall down on your belayer, but is quite fun and challenging to find the hold hidden up and right in the lichen. Cleaning the route was quite dangerous, with many footholds being dislodged while swinging back to the bolts. I do not suggest cleaning this on the lower, have your second clean it.

Overall an independent line with a couple good moves, but not worth the risk of life and limb. Oct 3, 2015
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
Did you give it a try? The roof section is excellent. Aug 28, 2011
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Mountain Project's route ordering is a little off on this one. This route is to the left of Murk Trench, up the dirt hill in the gully to the right of Left El Diego. Jakob pointed out the new bolts, easily seen from below Left El Diego. We were wondering what it was and alas... answers we have found! :) Aug 27, 2011