Type: Sport
FA: Tom Armstrong
Page Views: 2,277 total · 16/month
Shared By: BrianWinslow on Aug 21, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

93 Opinions

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The name for this route comes from the first ascentionist's use of a solo bely device (or so I heard.) The route starts just to the right of Trigger happy, up the steep corner to a blocky, shallow roof. Traverse to the right on good holds and then climb straight up the much bleaker looking face. There are some good crimps and good feet which are hard to make out from the ground (but not that good.) The crux comes just below the anchors, which for me included burling straight through some small crimps, but it's not too bad if you are not too pumped. There's probably a more efficient approach here so check out the route and let me know.


On the right side of Tripple corners (3 minutes left of Wiamea's left end) between trigger happy ( the left most bolt line in this section) and Perfectly Blunt.)


5 bolts to Lower Offs


lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
there is a non-burly way to do the top but most folks just stand there for a long time trying to figure it out then opt for the burl... some make it and some take the whipper... Aug 21, 2007
I wish I could have figured out the non-burly way. I was one of the people that sat there for a while trying to figure it out and then pulled a crazy toe hook and hand foot match of some sort and felt relieved not to take the whipper... this climb didn't feel like any other of the rumney climbs I have done. It was worth doing, but I can't say I'll ever do it again on lead. May 26, 2008
Londonderry, NH
NicoleKurth   Londonderry, NH
i think i did it the non-burly way... i think i did what btodd did and got a hand foot match but i didn't get a toe hook. I believe if you just take your time and do a bunch of balancy stand up moves the top is not that bad. Jun 21, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
I just reclimbed this one today so here is my two cents on the crux beta... for the frist time on this move i felt super solid and what i did was this:::

When i had my hands on the last good ledge/crack before the chains i got my right hand in a good spot and put my left upside down in a spot that would become a good undercling when i stood up... i got a high right foot on an edge and started standing up then got my left foot up to the ledge which made the undercling super solid at which point i got some good holds, stood up, and i was all "i think ill clip the chains now"...

Sorry if thats too much spray for you... take it or leave it, it worked well... Jul 8, 2008
bradley white   Bend
Lee the Flea and I did this route up until the corner ends in 1987. At the top of the corner I moved down to go far to the left and finish up the off width chimney of the Dike route. We called it Spiders in the faith, after all of the spider webs I had in my face while leading it. We rated it (5-8). I'm going to list this as a separate climb because it was done on trad gear. Jul 30, 2009
bedford, nh
GarrettM   bedford, nh
bring a long draw for the bolt on the top of the corner (bolt 4?). standard draws left beiner on the block, pressing the rope into the rock. kinda sketchy. Jul 13, 2011
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Hard at the grade (5.10b), especially if you're trying to get the onsight. Apr 30, 2016
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
Really great route. This section of wall has amazing rock quality. Quite slabby and orange. Kick-ass climb with variety and an elegant feel. Jul 26, 2017