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Routes in Triple Corners Right

Chris Hassig's Memorial Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dirty Dozen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jigsaw Puzzle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Left El Diego S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Dike T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Middle Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Murk Trench S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perfectly Blunt S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rack for Sale S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spiders in the faith T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Still My Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sun Bowl S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Technical Second S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trigger Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twelve Pack S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Mark Sprague 9/95
Page Views: 1,002 total, 8/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 21, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Climb the corner to a few tricky face moves just as for Twelve Pack, but at the ledge move right instead of left and head up the blocky looking steep section. The crux is about 10 feet off the ledge so make sure your belayer is on his or her toes.

This crux bulge is troubling but can be done a few ways. Continue up making full use of interesting holds and good stemming. The rest of the route is a bit more moderate, but its not a gimme by any stretch. It can get a bit pumpy depending on whether you figured good beta in the crux and how much you like stemming.

The last 25 feet were my favorite part for sure.

Location

Starts the same as twelve pack in the shaded often wet corner left of Lichen Dike

Protection

10 bolts to chains

Photos

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Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10d
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10d
Ian and I climbed this route after it had rained the night before. This made the dark, dank, manky, mossy start incredibly slick and greasy. Sport climbing excitement! But the upper part of the route was great. Aug 12, 2016
nomadian   MA
As others have said, this route is really a blast. It looks like it's getting more traffic and the bottom is a bit cleaner. I used two underclings through the crux that I didn't use the first time on it. Super fun. Oct 6, 2015
JodiNA  
Climbed it today (August 2014). Wasps! There were a few wasps at the midpoint right after the two routes split and a wasp nest in the juggy crack at the second to last bolt, after the crux section. When I stuck my hand into the bomber hold, a wasp flew out. Eeek! Aug 16, 2014
Derek Jf
Northeast
  5.10c/d
Derek Jf   Northeast
  5.10c/d
Had a great time on this line - interesting moves all the way. Climb this route Jun 24, 2014
Dirty Dozen has the rap hangers, Twelve Pack has rap rings or quick links. I donated two biners to lower off Dirty Dozen. Dirty Dozen is SWEET. Kneebars, finger jams, awkward wrestling with blocky prows, and an exciting, somewhat insecure series of sidepull liebacks to the anchors. Loved it. Apr 29, 2013
A.Javi.Gecko
San Diego, CA
  5.10d
A.Javi.Gecko   San Diego, CA
  5.10d
I thought this route was REALLY GOOD. Challenging mentally and physically because ALL THE HOLDS FACE THE WRONG WAY. Loved it! Nov 23, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I don't know nowadays, Soon. I don't like those Metolius rap hangers at all, but these were two of my earlier routes at Rumney, before I started using glue-ins, and all I had. They should ideally have a pair of 1/2" quicklinks on each hanger. The Metolius hangers are safe, but are kind of hard on your rope and make it tough to pull. At least the guys in your story didn't rap off the tiny tree above like I saw some tradsters do once. I seem to remember Twelve Pack always having regular hangers and quicklinks or biners. Jan 12, 2012
S. Neoh
5.10d
S. Neoh  
5.10d
A short funny story - last Fall, I was warming up by Left El Diego, etc when a man walked around asking if he and his partner (now at the anchors of this route or Twleve Pack) could borrow a rappel device. I asked why and he said that the anchors are only "bolt hangers" and neither of them has a rap device (they both have Gri-Gri). So I gave him my ATC to use. But I did not have the heart to tell him they are many more routes at Rumney that require a rap (no q-links or beefy chains). So they might had to do more borrowing later that day!

Mark, do you happen to remember if this route or Twelve Pack only have Metolius Rap Anchors (and no quick links)? I do not recall.
I did however tell him that the "bolt hangers" are very likely Metolius Rap Anchors and are perfectly fine to rap from. Jan 12, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
yeah it deserves a good cleaning and more traffic! i never worried about the run out but wouldn't complain about making a route safer either... Jul 13, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
OK, so maybe start with a recleaning of the start and then see how it looks. Jul 13, 2011
S. Neoh
5.10d
S. Neoh  
5.10d
I have done this route several times over the years and I do think it deserves 2.5 or 3 stars. The climb gets better the higher one goes but many cannot see past the manky start. I do not think the said runout is bad. I did sling the tree the 1st time up but not since. Frankly, I am more concerned climbing before the 1st bolt of Clusterphobia/Metamorphosis.
More people should get on this route. Jul 13, 2011
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
I think another bolt would be helpful for the sake of safety. It is a bit out of character at Rumney to have such a runout, and most people probably don't carry slings for the tree. It is really a great route though. Jul 13, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I used to put a sling on the tree sometimes, but usually not, to not get rope drag. I often thought of putting a bolt in to replace the tree. It is very easy climbing where it is run out, but it is sometimes wet and a slip could very well be deadly. What do people think of another bolt? It would mess up the count for the "dozen" name, but might be worth it. I think it and it's sister are good climbs that more people might enjoy and I don't usually like to leave big runouts.

Is it needed, or fine without another bolt that might just add drag? Jul 13, 2011
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
I dont understand why the ratings arent better for this climb... It is long, technical, pumpy, well-bolted, all the elements of a classic climb. I think this is my favorite route at triple corners. There is a 25 foot runout between bolts 4 and 5, with about 5.3 climbing in between. I guess you could throw a sling around the tree midway if you don't feel like dying, but I'm pretty sure I encountered harder moves on the hike up.

DO THIS ROUTE!!! Jul 19, 2009