Type: Sport
FA: Paul Wonsavage 3/96
Page Views: 3,487 total · 25/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 19, 2007
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

126 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


A fun balancy route that gets its name from the fact that this would protect fine with gear but you can sell the rack cause they bolted it.

Climb 10 feet of moderate climbing to the first roof. Layback past this and get warmed up for the crux. Another roof must be past in much the same way but you will find it very off balance due to not having feet right where you want them. The holds are good so just go for it. Once you commit it feels 5.7 again. Easier moves get you to the top. Enjoy.


Just right of the 2 5.10s. Look for the nice corner with a crack in it passing 2 roofs.


5 bolts to anchor


A lot of fun. My friend is still new to leading and led it and liked it a lot. I followed it and thought it was a lot more fun than the 10s on the other side of it. May 26, 2008
Michael John Gray
Queensbury, NY
Michael John Gray   Queensbury, NY
I understand this is Rumney and bolting is accepted. Although, I find it disgusting and wrong to bolt a crack anywhere. -IMO Mar 18, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Oh for God's sake! You find a route, clean it, and lead it any old way you wish. Have you lead this route on trad gear or are you just pontificating and quality grading from afar? Mar 18, 2012
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
In a place like Rumney this SHOULD be bolted. Rumney is a sport climbing area and this serves as on of the best 5.7 in Rumney. It would be a shame for a climb of this quality to be reclaimed by the lichen and moss because it sat dormant because it didn't get bolted. This is Rumney , we don't get a lot of trad climbing. You can always do what many of have done lead it on gear skipping the bolts, it makes a cool photo. Cheers.

I also don't think it is fair that you rated it the bomb this climb is way better than that. Regardless if its bolted or not... Mar 19, 2012
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
I was happy to have the opportunity to safely get to the top of this when I first started to climb in 2008, thankful to clip each bolt along my ascent. It made me excited to climb it placing gear and a year later was my first trad climb... barefoot. :) Great route. Mar 20, 2012
Michael John Gray
Queensbury, NY
Michael John Gray   Queensbury, NY
A friend pointed this route out to me in a way that set me off. A comment was made about climbing a bolted crack in my honor. I took it the wrong way. I did not realize the circumstances. They led it and said it was great too. Generally I am sensitive to bolts on cracks. I guess the joke was on me. Sounds like a good climb and glad its bolted. Thanks for reminding me why I need to not make any comments on forums or anything. My bad! LOL Send on! Cheers friends. Apr 18, 2012
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
I led this and the 5.8 crack by the Road on gear today. I'm super brand new to the world of trad and I just want to throw in my recommendation for this awesome route! My placements were MUCH more confidence inspiring than on 5.8 Crack. This is a great beginner's trad lead if you are comfortable at the grade. Apr 21, 2013
Matt Bac  
Definitely one of the more interesting 5.7s I've ever done. Fun climb. Oct 22, 2014