Avg: 0.9 from 18 votes
Routes in Triple Corners Right
|Chris Hassig's Memorial Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Dirty Dozen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Jigsaw Puzzle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Left El Diego S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Lichen Dike T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Middle Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Murk Trench S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Perfectly Blunt S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Rack for Sale S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Spiders in the faith T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Still My Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Sun Bowl S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Technical Second S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Trigger Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Twelve Pack S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 35 ft|
|FA:||Bradley White July 2012 FFA Mathew Wallace Aug. 2012 and the FFA finish Timmijal|
|Page Views:||671 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||bradley white on Jul 30, 2012|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionClimb named after the Rolling Stones album Beggar's Banquet, song. The climb is on clean enough doable rock, in a not so clean rock area. Climbing traffic would improve the surface. It has not been brushed and is in its natural condition.
Start at the cracked rock, shallow overhang bulge that is (5.7) stopper protected. Go direct to pin and move left to a large flake horn to hero loop. Clip bolt above the flake. Move right and up to get to another bolt (5.8) and higher right pin at stance. Go past pin and move left to giant protruding rock (the blade) that was the aided crux. This crux required a shallow pin placement after a bolt (5.7) drilling placement. The pin popped out on the first try. Second try shallow tied off pin held. Placed last bolt and pin above the crux for rappel. Checked out moves and probably (5.? )free. Did not have the stamina to finish it to a higher stance. I was climbing with an immediately injured wrist. Fell hiking to climb. I intended to go left after stance at base of ramp to clean inclining corner crack facing right (I was seeing things). Directly up Looked very nice also (very dirty above anchors). Intended to go higher and mantle onto the tree ledge. Here there 20ft high and wide quartz wall. Probably a free way up it, it being quartz.
The blade of rock definitely goes free with a lot of sequential arm power or otherwise our inability too lift our legs into it. Frustrating and I got through some of it before not getting over the crux (C0). The climb goes PG13 after that, with easier as you get higher moves to do for the rappel anchors. Moss and lichen above here or entering the 'Lichen Dike' is doable. The route stops 10-12ft above last bolt at the stance.
Temporary rappel anchors and the climb to this station was done with Ed Hasse. Ed seconding free climbed up the face left of crux area and up to bolt above. Big run out to be on the lead and its in the 5.8 zone.