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Routes in Triple Corners Right

Chris Hassig's Memorial Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dirty Dozen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jigsaw Puzzle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Left El Diego S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Dike T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Middle Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Murk Trench S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perfectly Blunt S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rack for Sale S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spiders in the faith T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Still My Way S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sun Bowl S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Technical Second S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trigger Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twelve Pack S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tim Gotwols 1980
Page Views: 92 total, 1/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 21, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

You may have noticed that all the really "bad" routes at Rumney have been entered by me. Well I happen to like "bad" routes. I guess I look for the best in every route. This one was good for a laugh due to the copious amounts of lichen (as the name implies) raining down in my eyes and showering my belayer. I found the second pitch to be really fun with less lichen.

Pitch one: Climb the poorly protected lichen coated dike to a nice ledge where you can belay or link it up with pitch two. Although I found this pitch to be funny it would be quite serious if it was anywhere near your limit difficulty wise.

Pitch 2: Follow a crack up the corner to the top. I liked this short pitch a lot.

Location

On the right side of Triple Corners look for the dirty dike left of most of the sport routes.

Protection

First pitch takes almost nothing for gear. Pitch 2 protects well with a regular rack.

Rap off to the ground.

Photos

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Eric Leclerc
Montreal
 
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
 
Bolting the first pitch would be great. I sent my partner on this one this past weekend and even being a 13b climber, he didn't like having no pros for almost 40 feet. Most of the holds had fractures and any of them could have break. The lichen was not a big issue. If the first pitch was bolted, people would go on it. There are line-ups now at Rack for Sale. This would give options. It would also give an opportunity to the climbers of this grade to do the second pitch in trad. An anchor would help. Aug 11, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
If it was cleaned and bolted I think people would be all over it. What nice easy route at Rumney isn't? Jul 14, 2011
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Does this lead up to the finger crack above from the bigger ledge? I feel like Brady Libby had something hard (waiting to be done?) somewhere up there? Jul 13, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i think this would be a good one to bolt... i thought it was fun but doubt anyone has done it since me (10 years ago or whatever haha)... i wonder if it would stay clean though, i guess traffic would do that though and more beginners are heading out to the farther crags these days... Jul 13, 2011
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I always wanted to retro this route to a bit more protected mixed route, maybe sport the first pitch and trad the second plus bolted anchors. I'm pretty sure Tim gave me carte blanche to retro his routes at Rumney years ago, but I'll have to check with him again. I'm getting the bug to get back to Rumney again after being away and at outback cliffs too long. I might need something this grade to start back up, lol Jul 13, 2011