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Routes in East Buttress

Adagio T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Adam's Rib T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beyond The Abyss S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Block Party S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chestnut T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Encore S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun Park S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Goldrush S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moondance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Neve's Cling On S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Northern Lights T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Powder in the Sky T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Rumble in the Jungle S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Say Goodbye To Hollywood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Slot Right Step Left T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slot, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sugar Mama T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tap Dancing T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Latex Blues S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yorkey's Crumpet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Antoine Savelli
Page Views: 818 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tristan Perry on Aug 30, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is as good as sport climbing gets in the Telluride area. Starting already one pitch off the deck, cast off from a ledge halfway up a beautiful, unyielding wall. Goldrush can be characterized as pure endurance climbing. From overhanging jug hauling low on the route, the grips get smaller, and the climb lessens in angle. A long crux of sidepulling and gastoning at the top is tiring, and the final moves to the anchor are quite testing to those who lack impeccable technique.

Note: sometimes you'll find a fixed rope in the way, wieghted by a rock. Move it aside (easy to do) and leave it alone. These ropes serve as protection to those who rope solo in this area for a workout. When you're done, make sure you leave the ropes as they were.

Location

Goldrush is located in the "Jungle Gym" on the East Buttress. To gain the start, you must climb either one of two approach pitches, at 5.10: Block Party or Yellow Latex Blues.

Protection

Quickdraws.

Photos

perrotr Perrot
Telluride
  5.12b
perrotr Perrot   Telluride
  5.12b
A forearm-sized block came out of horizontal after third bolt. Heads up to the belayer until the leader gets past the lower crux (4th bolt) traverse move to the arete. The starting flake could also come off, so don't crank on her too hard. Unrelenting moves for the last 30-40 feet. If you're gassed and puzzled as to how to clip the chains...go way right. One of the best routes in Ophir, so good. Sep 20, 2016