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Routes in East Buttress

Adagio T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Adam's Rib T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beyond The Abyss S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Block Party S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chestnut T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fun Park S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Goldrush S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Moondance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Neve's Cling On S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Northern Lights T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Powder in the Sky T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Rumble in the Jungle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Say Goodbye To Hollywood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Slot Right Step Left T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slot, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sugar Mama T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tap Dancing T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Latex Blues S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yorkey's Crumpet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: [Bill Kees, Royal Robbins, 1978]
Page Views: 686 total · 4/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

To find this climb, look for a large dead tree trunk at the base of the East Buttress on a ledge above the talus. Belay on this ledge.

The climb follows a right-facing corner up towards a small roof. Climb this corner, with difficult beginning moves, up to the small roof, skirt this on its right side and continue up cracks to easier ground above. A tree, up and left with slings on it, is the shortest option for ending the climb. Another option is to continue up to the top of cliff by following a crack up another short steep step. If taken to the top, 2 ropes or 2 rappels are needed to get down. Another option is to walk downhill (climber's right) to the 4th class descent.

The climb protects well with mostly small gear, but the cracks are discontinuous, so it isn't always available.

Protection

Single set of cams, single set of stoppers.

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