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Routes in East Buttress
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Adagio T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Adam's Rib T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beyond The Abyss S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Block Party S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Chestnut T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fun Park S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Goldrush S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Moondance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Neve's Cling On S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Obscure Root, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Pine Box T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Rumble in the Jungle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Say Goodbye To Hollywood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Slot Right Step Left T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Slot, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sugar Mama T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Tap Dancing T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Yellow Latex Blues S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Yorkey's Crumpet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.86179, -107.86834 |
| FA: | Henry Barber, 1973 |
| Page Views: | 605 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Sprackling on Aug 26, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is a historic testpiece route that was put up by Henry Barber and was not repeated for about 10 years until Henry and Michael Kennedy did it again.
I heard that Henry was not a fan of cams and Michael did not use chalk. Henry said "we're not going to use cams, ok", and Michael said "ok, if you don't use chalk." Then they cruised the route.
While this route has not seen a ton of ascents, it is a great climb.
Start in the obvious corner to the left of Block Party, and climb the corner with small to no gear until the corner opens up to a finger crack. Then step right to a ledge where an old pin and stopper anchor are located. Pass it, and climb the obvious hand / fingers splitter off the ledge.
From the top of the splitter, people usually continue up blocky, loose terrain to the big anchor tree on the mirror wall approach ledge. Descend by going down the ramp to the left.
This route can be climbed to the tree in 1 pitch with a 70m rope. Otherwise, break it up however you like.
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