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Routes in East Buttress

Adagio T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Adam's Rib T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beyond The Abyss S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Block Party S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chestnut T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Encore S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun Park S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Goldrush S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moondance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Neve's Cling On S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Northern Lights T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Powder in the Sky T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Rumble in the Jungle S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Say Goodbye To Hollywood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Slot Right Step Left T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slot, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sugar Mama T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tap Dancing T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Latex Blues S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yorkey's Crumpet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: D. Langmade, Steve Moose, 1978
Page Views: 77 total, 1/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a classic case of a pretty line and a not very good climb. Uphill from The Slot and just below Chestnut, look for a cool looking, dark corner.

Climb this corner to a ledge just below where the corner looks blank. Here you make a decision. Traverse left to easier ground and use the Chestnut tree anchor to descend OR continue up the blank corner at about 5.9 R.

Protection

A single set of small cams and stoppers.

Photos

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Becky Gibbs
Telluride, CO
 
Becky Gibbs   Telluride, CO
 
I climbed the upper dihedral direct (5.9 R) and thought it was fun (3 stars). Aug 25, 2008