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Routes in East Buttress

Adagio T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Adam's Rib T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beyond The Abyss S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Block Party S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chestnut T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Encore S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun Park S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Goldrush S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moondance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Neve's Cling On S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Northern Lights T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Powder in the Sky T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Rumble in the Jungle S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Say Goodbye To Hollywood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Slot Right Step Left T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slot, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sugar Mama T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tap Dancing T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Latex Blues S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yorkey's Crumpet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Royal Robbins, Bill Kees, 1978
Page Views: 88 total, 1/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Think you can climb any 5.9 out there? Give this one a try (but it would probably be better to let your partner have it).

Look for a relatively short, right-facing corner uphill from The Slot a ways (not the black corner which is Sugar Mama but just uphill from there). Climb face up and past a piton to gain the corner. Gather your strength and courage, and try to pretend you are Royal Robbins. Continue up the corner using thin holds and smears with very little gear. If done today, I doubt people would have a problem with calling it 5.10b R, but in 1978 with not very good footwear, this was apparently 5.9.

Protection

A single set of small cams and stoppers, one quickdraw for piton.

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