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Routes in East Buttress

Adagio T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Adam's Rib T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beyond The Abyss S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Block Party S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chestnut T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Encore S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun Park S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Goldrush S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moondance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Neve's Cling On S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Northern Lights T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Powder in the Sky T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Rumble in the Jungle S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Say Goodbye To Hollywood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Slot Right Step Left T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slot, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sugar Mama T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unknown Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Latex Blues S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yorkey's Crumpet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Antoine Savelli
Page Views: 1,023 total, 19/month
Shared By: Antoine Savelli on Jul 26, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the first hard route on the Ophir Wall, it has never been seconded. It was put up and freed in 1996.

First pitch: this has a 5a or 5.9 move. It is an average pitch, bring pro or use first pitch of Goldrush, which is much better.

Second pitch: 8c/8c+ or 5.14d/15a. It has a very tricky sequence up high and is sustained for 6 meters. Otherwise, it is quite reasonable.

Location

This is on the Lower East Buttress, Jungle Gym, behind our house. It has a 3 minute approach.

Protection

10 clips.

Photos

Patricio Vyhmeister  
  5.13a
I just did "maybe" the fourth ascent of Beyond the Abyss. 5.13a/b, no way 5.13c or harder. Thanks for bolting such a good line, Antoine. Apr 14, 2015
8c/8c+ is 5.14b/c. Apr 19, 2014