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Routes in East Buttress

Adagio T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Adam's Rib T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Beyond The Abyss S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Block Party S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chestnut T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Encore S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun Park S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Goldrush S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moondance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Neve's Cling On S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Northern Lights T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Powder in the Sky T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Rumble in the Jungle S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Say Goodbye To Hollywood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Slot Right Step Left T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slot, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sugar Mama T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unknown Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Latex Blues S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yorkey's Crumpet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 175 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bob Sullivan, 1975
Page Views: 243 total, 3/month
Shared By: S.Mckinna on Aug 5, 2011 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is an excellent route! The climb shares a start with another good climb called The Bush.

Pitch 1: go up the wide crack first pitch of The Bush and belay. I can't remember if there are bolts there, but it is a rap station.

Pitch 2: continue up The Bush about halfway, then traverse 20 feet right with a good crack for pro/holds. Belay at an exposed ledge, turning a corner, using hand gear and something smaller. This has a great position with a semi-hanging belay.

Pitch 3: this beautiful pitch traverses an exposed ledge right to a perfect, left-facing corner. I remember the corner to be wide hands mostly.

Location

This is past the Jungle Gym Area, to the right, on the lower east buttress. It is just right of an obvious line, Contentment Chimney.

Protection

A set of TCUs and a double set of Camalots up to #1. Triples #2 & #3 plus a #4. Lots of runners. I think we lugged a #5 up and didn't use it. 2 single rope rappels. Rappel 100 feet off the top on a tree, to the left, above the bush. Then rap 70 feet or so to the ground.

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